Slick 60's

When I put my engine back in my slick, I installed a new clutch and throw out bearing. new clutch pressure plate and had NAPA resurface the flywheel.
In the hope that I would not have the same problem that I had, which was, when you let out on the clutch it shimmies. ''
When I took it apart the rear main oil seal was leaking and the clutch was soaked in oil. I did replace the seal. But I still have the same problem.':x')
"Oh" I also replaced the pilot bearing.

Can anyone help

Thanks
Richard

sounds like you did everything needed. what kind of pressure plate are you running? the three finger or "lots o' finger" kind?

My truck does this because the cab is rusted out. When I let the clutch out, the cab shakes, causing my foot to move up and down quickly. You don't notice it IF this is the problem because you are in the cab. I know I didn't explain it the best way, but if your cab mounts are rusted out like mine........

Hi, ezernut9mm,

I'm using the 3 finger kind, that's what was on it.

I also replace all of the mount with new rubber

Thanks
Richard

richard, come on in to the chatroom and ask. there are a bunch of folks in there right now that could help.

Could be a pressure plate that wasn't rebuilt right...seen that happen before. That's a bummer that there's so much work involved to swap it out to see, though.

What about the motor and tranny mounts. If too flexible, will cause that type of problem. Also the bushings in the Z bar can cause problems of that sort.

Fred

Richard,

Also, don't forget to check the "BIG END" Bushings in your rear leaf springs. Bad Bushings Cause Clutch Chatter.

As you can see by the diagnostics people are offering here, most deal with "Float, slack or some sort of Movement" in mounted powertrain or cab. The movement affects & reduces accuracy or precision of your ability to engage a clutch smoothly because something moves out of, or loses, it's adjustment when torque is to applied to the drivetrain system. Clutch moves out of adjustment, clutch grabs, then moves, grabs & moves etc.
If it does it fast enough it creates a terrible chattering effect. The slower the clutch is engaged the worse it gets, and the faster it is engaged the less it is or it may even disappear completely.

If one were to Graphically show what's going on it would be what some of us call " an Inch Worm Effect" or powertrain undulation during torque application. When all is correct & no excess freeplay exists in linkage, drivetrain, mounts or suspension it will work as designed.

By Drivetrain I mean; engine - transmission - rearend/drive axle, related suspension and mounts or linkage used to control use of components, such as a clutch equalizer bar or worn throttle linkage.

I do not know how many times I've made this repair for clients, after they spent huge bucks to R&R a perfectly good clutch & still had the symptoms. Sometimes even worse symptoms because a new clutch has zero wear & grabs better than an old one.

I hope this helps you locate, isolate, and repair your problem.

FBp

Thanks, FordBoy Pete

I didn't think of that I did not change the transmission mount it seemed stiff
and I did not change the big end spring rubber. So I will take a look at them this weekend.

Richard

Thanks Slickfan

If the mount and the big end rubber is good then the pressure plate was what I was thinking also