Brake light switch option.

[jwh f-100]

Here is one more option for a pedal activated brake switch.

Other than approximate measurements of the steel needed to build the bracket I think it is probably best to not try and give exact step by step, where to drill, where to bend, ect. ect. I would suggest make your bends first then by holding the bracket on the truck mark where the switch and mounting hole needs to be.

Here is a basic diagram


The bracket.


Installed... View from the fuel pedal side.


View from the clutch side.

[DV65CustomCab]

My only criticism of the design (and I like it) is that the bracket could pivot when the brake pedal is released. If the bracket could be bent in such a way it sits in the 'flange' of the pedal bracket that would be prevented.

Now, if the pedal switch is adjusted correctly for a light touch to the pedal and the bolt is snug it probably wouldn't ever do that, but in the interest of perfecting the design that's what I'd probably do.

[jwh f-100]

My only criticism of the design (and I like it) is that the bracket could pivot when the brake pedal is released. If the bracket could be bent in such a way it sits in the 'flange' of the pedal bracket that would be prevented.

Now, if the pedal switch is adjusted correctly for a light touch to the pedal and the bolt is snug it probably wouldn't ever do that, but in the interest of perfecting the design that's what I'd probably do.

Very good point and thank you for adding.. I wish I had thought of that. I would have dropped it down against the lip or possibly made the top part long enough for two bolts. Install one, adjusted as needed and then "nail down" with a second bolt.

[ICEMAN6166]

i did not even use a bracket, i took out the rubber bump stop under the dash that the pedal arm contacts and put the switch in the hole. (61-64 cab and 65-66 bigger trucks and 4x4).

[Greg D]

i did not even use a bracket, i took out the rubber bump stop under the dash that the pedal arm contacts and put the switch in the hole. (61-64 cab and 65-66 bigger trucks and 4x4).

I did that on my 66 short too. A simple pop rivet would solve the issue of it possibly moving.

[jwh f-100]

A simple pop rivet would solve the issue of it possibly moving.

Another good thought.

I am confident it will not move. The bolt I used is a "grip flange" bolt. It is tightened to the point the bolt would actually need to tighten for the braket to turn. The bolt is from a alternator adjustment arm.

[Lowell]

I made a bracket very similar to that one , only i drilled two small holes just to the left of the big bolt in the photo, and fastened it with two small metal screws. you have to be sure and keep the screws short to keep from interfering with the moving parts behind.I used the same switch too.I had to measure ,cut and bend as i went to get it right.

[Blackwaterforge]

Thanks for the replies! The electric switch may be the best option.
Ice I like your idea about using the existing hole where the rubber bumper is.

[ICEMAN6166]

i used regular size 1/2- 20 fine thread nuts,overkill by far ,but i dont think it will come loose.

[qwertyd10n]

i did not even use a bracket, i took out the rubber bump stop under the dash that the pedal arm contacts and put the switch in the hole. (61-64 cab and 65-66 bigger trucks and 4x4).

ICEMAN,

Any chance you have a picture of this setup?

I took a look under the dash on my '66 4x4 this evening and it seems the bump stop on my brake pedal is actually attached to the pedal bracket and moves with the pedal. It stops against the bracket that the clutch and brake pedals are all mounted to. Is this was you took out and replaced with the plunger style switch? Or did I misunderstand something?

Cheers,
Dion

[fmartin_gila]

I just made an "L" shaped bracket and hose-clamped the short leg to the steering column and a plunger type switch in the long leg which matched the pedal arm. Is slightly visible, but has worked perfectly for well over five years now and is really easy to accomplish.

[ICEMAN6166]

i did not even use a bracket, i took out the rubber bump stop under the dash that the pedal arm contacts and put the switch in the hole. (61-64 cab and 65-66 bigger trucks and 4x4).

ICEMAN,

Any chance you have a picture of this setup?

I took a look under the dash on my '66 4x4 this evening and it seems the bump stop on my brake pedal is actually attached to the pedal bracket and moves with the pedal. It stops against the bracket that the clutch and brake pedals are all mounted to. Is this was you took out and replaced with the plunger style switch? Or did I misunderstand something?

Cheers,
Dion

sorry pic would not do you any good the early cab and f250 4x4 is different.

[Obsa]

It has been a few years back, but I used a switch from a motorcycle. It was in my "junk" box so not sure what make it was from.

[Hooligan66]

Bringing this back up. With the design the OP made and the concern of it pivoting, why not just add extra length to the top area that attaches with a bolt? Say, enough room for a second bolt? Possible pivoting issue solved.

[bobenhotep]

I mounted mine through the sheet metal behind the dash. the stock wires can be brought through the firewall and reach the switch. The business end of the switch works off of the bumpstop bar on the brake pedal.