Slick 60's

This is the switch from O’Rielly’s about $15.00


Made the mounting bracket out of 16 gauge galvanized steel and another one mounted on the pedal


Mounted the switch with a couple drill point screws,drilled thru the pedal but the screw snapped off.That metal was to thick and my bit went dull....clamps are working for now


The original wires when pushed into cab had enough length for a plug and play install

Also a customer loaned this Eastwood Flaring tool to me....



Everyone should have one of these,easiest tool I’ve ever used to make brake lines,did all of them and new rubber ones also new 67 M/C bolted up to booster and avoided that rod length issue..
Drove thru the city this morning the brakes are working like brakes,last week I would leave Home late,keep back at least four car lengths,two at stop lights and let the pedal slowly go to the floor then pump it again...

... 50 years from now
Some guy will discover those clamps
When he is working on that truck

slick4x4 wrote: ... 50 years from now
Some guy will discover those clamps
When he is working on that truck

You’re probably right about that,I put a pair of small vice grips on the shifter arm at the firewall 18years ago they’re still there...if it works leave it alone

Great fix,thanks for posting.
My fix uses a micro switch and was a great pain to get everything to line up. I was wondering if there is enough room to mount your bracket to the inside of where you install it, and turn it 90* horizontally, that would allow the switch to be activated by the brake arm itself thus eliminating the pedal bracket piece and the drilling issue.

some years ago i used a switch from a 68 ford if i remember correctly and fabricated a bracket and fastened it with two metal screws. worked out well. the pedal arm directly bumps the switch button.

Mr: Jones: Nice work!! But am I the only one wondering what the part number for that switch is?
A pic of the PN sticker on the box would be most helpful:)

Cheers!
James

Mr. Jones wrote:This is the switch from O’Rielly’s about $15.00

Gracias, Senor Jones!

I spent some time looking on O'Reiley's site, and narrowed it down to three likely suspects, and SLS40 was my best guess:)

Guess confirmed!!

Cheers!
James

I recently did this too my truck as well. I didn't take any pictures. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the pedal assembly right where that rubber bumper hits. There was enough room above that (Behind the instrument cluster) to mount a switch. I could only find a normally open switch but I took it apart and it was easy to convert it to normally closed.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SPST-15A-1 ... 4164218286

That's what the switch looked like.

I'm glad for the recommendation on that tubing flair tool. I struggled with one line I had to replace and was dreading having to do the complete chassis project I have going. I'll be looking for a better tool.

Nic

I like your STYLE Mr. Jones. "if it works, leave it alone", my daddy taught me that from the age of 8, and the way you put things in place to STAY. LOL.....all the guys that I've ever employed would whisper to each other behind my back, how I go OVER KILL on everything.

I really don't see it as over kill, I just don't want to have to do everything I do 4-5 different times during my "1 and only" journey in this world. There are always other things that need my attention too.

Keep up the good work.....

Will a pedal from a 68 with switch bracket swap in place of a 65 brake pedal?

rockauto has those switches for $2 and change. i bought 5 delivered for the same money as 1 from oreillys and i didn't have tp drive to olathe to get it. the self-tapping screws work great for attaching that brake lite bracket to the pedal assembly. then you can remove your vice grips or c-clamp. you may need them again.

chris401 wrote:Will a pedal from a 68 with switch bracket swap in place of a 65 brake pedal?

?

chris401 wrote:

chris401 wrote:Will a pedal from a 68 with switch bracket swap in place of a 65 brake pedal?

?

dont know. i know the whole pedal assembly is different. trace out a carpenter's square. 2 inches wide by 1 1/2 inches wide. leave the arms 6 inches long and cut to suit for a bracket and fold it to the instructions on here. works good. attach bracket with self tapping screws. 1/4 inch screw gun will fit under there.

I took the 68 pedal out. I'll try it out and post
Thanks

For everyone using PostImage do not delete your pics from your phone.I did and now their gone from this post.....lesson learned.
Dan

Mr. Jones wrote:For everyone using PostImage do not delete your pics from your phone.I did and now their gone from this post.....lesson learned.
Dan

The picture question was raised but no answer yet.

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