The Blue Truck Saga

[beater_renix]

Hello everyone I’m new to Slick 60’s, and a Jeep guy that’s moving on. I recently inherited my wife’s great grandfathers 1965 Camper Special.



As a side note our fore fathers were giants of men. They drove three quarter ton trucks without assisted braking or steering let alone A/C (and sitting on the fuel tank), much respect for them.


The truck sat mostly covered for years, but it was in Indiana so there’s plenty of rust. The basic equipment is a 352 FE with 2 barrel carb, and a four speed manual (NP 435 I think).

My build plans are all over the map right now, so I still haven’t’ decided what I want to do with it. I’ve got an affinity to historical things, but I also want to use them as they were intended. I have no place for garage queens. Knowing that, I’ve managed to convince myself it will be a restomod.

A friend of mine is going on the Hot Rod Power Tour in June (2016) with his 69 C10, and he convinced me I need to bring this ford as well. This build will chronicle my attempt to restore basic functionality to this truck then take it on a long haul power tour. My best guess is ~3000 miles in a weeks’ time, at highways speeds, with no overdrive.

I’ve kicked around Hydroboost or the ABS power brake electric booster contraption. If I go Hydroboost I’ll go ahead and add power steering. Fordification has a good write up on power steering so I’ll look into that, if that the direction I go. The gas tank I would like out of the cab and front disc are mandatory as far as I’m concerned. An engine swap to a 460 is a consideration, but I feel that is sort of cheating. I debate swapping another drive train in just for the power tour, then take my time and build the restomod like I want.

Being a married, working adult, raising two girls, and going to college the budget for this build is bordering non-existent. My completion data is years out, but I’d like to get it driving in the next 8 months.

Does anyone have any advice on anything I’ve mentioned? I’ll ask more directed questions once I get a feel for what I need to know. This forum has already been an excellent resource, so thank in advance.

[bruceandersson]

Fordification has a lot of good reference material that applies to slicks as well. PS and brake upgrades are easy and worthwhile IMO. Re-sealing the engine is worthwhile as they tend to leak with 50 yr old gaskets. I've put 90's era seats in a couple to get headrests as one case of whiplash in my life is enough. The pressure based brake switch tends to fail - fordification has an upgrade for this as well. I'd replace any rubber fuel line and the fuel pump as the old stuff does not like the ethanol in todays gas.

[beater_renix]

Thanks Bruce,

Head rests were something I hadn't even thought about. Nor had I thought about the brake-light switch; but I probably would have found it at some inopportune time.

There are some rather large holes in the cowl panel kickers on both sides, I'm not sure I'll get to that inside my deadline. My plan is to start with the rear brakes and work my way up the power train. Currently I'm planning on not removing the the cab or bed, But depending on what I find that may change.

[ICEMAN6166]

welcome to slick 60s

As a side note our fore fathers were giants of men. They drove three quarter ton trucks without assisted braking or steering let alone A/C (and sitting on the fuel tank), much respect for them.

but thats exactly why i like these trucks.



l

[beater_renix]

How does everyone feel about mixing parts from different makes? There are some purest that absolutely won't do that. I’m not sure how I feel about it, while I'm not building a rat rod, I'm also not building a numbers matching restoration.

I ask because I’m thinking about a 14bolt rear with drum in hat discs and hydroboost. I’ll get the front discs from a late 60’s early 70’s truck. any thoughts or comments?

[foodstick]

You won't hear to muh complaining about mix and match on Ford parts.. but there are some that grumble when other brands motors find there way under the hood ! hahahahha

there is part of me that wants a big camper like the one pictured above.. to put on my 66, that belonged to my Dad. there was a SUPER cool old vintage topper for sale in Lincoln Nebraska awhile back on Craigs list...

[beater_renix]

The folks I go this truck from, actually had the slide in camper, but it was beyond repair, and sitting on top of what looked like a Bon fire in the making.

I'm still not sure but I'm leaning towards the 14 bolt. It honestly won't be noticeable on a long bed any way. I'll keep the FE for sure. I'm one of those guys that hates cross breed engines too.

Thanks for the feedback.

[beater_renix]

I thought I'd update my build status. I have made basically zero progress, but I have managed to determine what I want. I hate building things in stages because it cost so much more, but it looks like that's what I'll be doing here. With the complete lack of budget on this project I'm going to have to go super cheap. Several of my big dreams have been pushed back (which sounds a lot like never sometimes). So here it is:

Phase 1: Return the truck to running order.
Replace:
Water pump, spark plugs, wire, cap and button, coil, Refresh drums all four corners, bleed brakes.
Pressure test cooling system, determine if Radiator is sound. (May need to replace core support but that breaks the bank on a 65 F-250 manual).
Remove/relocate gas tank from cab.
repair sheet metal around cab vents.
Check electrical wiring for safety (some of the wiring has been twisted together and left unisulated for what looks like years)

Phase 2: Things I'm putting off because of budget and time.
14 bolt rear end swap
Hydroboost and power steering addition.
Front (possibly rear as well) Disc brakes and master cylinder.

Phase 3: A guy can dream right?
Ranger torque splitter or six speed manual.
4.25" stroke crank and associated Engine rebuild, aluminum heads
Fe power intake adapter and sheet metal intake with EFI rails
EFI conversion (most likely Megasquirt, but possible use a 0411 PCM from a Chevy and make it work with EFI live).

The effort with all of this is to have a 3/4 ton truck that is a sleeper. I want everything to look like its as old as it is.

[foodstick]

A plan is still getting things done. I still wish I had some big ole camper on my Dads 6 when I see that pic.. Unfortunately its hard enough to find room to park it now

[beater_renix]

I had a chance last night to crawl under the truck and see where I might put the gas tank. It turns out the exhaust and hitch are in the way.









This hitch is massive! It connects to the frame in at least four places. The original owner hauled a 18ft camper up and down the Rockies with it, so I hesitate to cut it out. I was hoping to use a suburban Gas tank (30.5Wx 34Lx13.5H). Just a quick glance at it I'd have to cut out/relocate three possibly four of the cross members, then re-route the exhaust. If it does come out I'll replace it with a Reese 37087 Class III, which may or may not be a downgrade.

How many cross member were factory on the 65 F250 Camper Special? Can I get away with boxing the frame are loosing some of these? Any thoughts or opinions?

I supposes I could always go with the side mount tanks. I just like the idea of having a 42 gallon tank.

[The Big M]

I don't have an answer for you regarding the standard number of crossmembers, but that does look like a lot. I wonder if the one immediately rearward of the shackle mount is factory, or could that have been added as an extra point to mount the hitch?

A boxed frame rail will definitely be stiffer in bending and more resistant to twisting loads, but I'd be hesitant to cut out the crossmember that spans between the shackle mounts. If you were to remove an intermediate crossmember you could probably compensate by adding some bracing, but I'll have to defer to the experts on what that frame should look like from the factory.

[beater_renix]

Thanks Big M, I'll most likely relocate them not remove them. I do appreciate the advice on keep the ones at the shackles. All the documents I can find only show one across at the very end of the frame, and one just in front of the diff. Looking back at these photos they appear to I Beam, C beams or angle Iron. It doesn't look too factory. It also just dawned on me that the truck was originally single rear exhaust. I may look at doing a dual rear side dumps behind the tires. Is there any point to straight back exhaust or is it just preference?

[Harper]

nice build.
I have kicked around my 1965 F100 project so many times, changed engine combos, transmission combos, end purposes, at one time i wanted a street truck, a drag truck, a top end ride, its gone from a EFI 302 to a 460 and back more than a few times. Currently I have plans for a 460 with C6 (a 6 speed manual would be awesome, but that transmission would be a fortune in itself.

personally i can not suggest what you do, because in the end it is your truck and you know more about what uses you will get out of it.
but if you go big block 429 or 460, just use the engine perches from a 73-79 with a big block they will work. As for the EFI i have purchased a upper EFI intake off of the 87-96 ford pickup and know this should work as it works on the trucks they are on currently. If you could find you a complete truck you could use upper and lower intake, fuel rails, EFI computer, harness nearly everything with the exception of the fuel tank (since you have the hitch)
Personally i would leave the hitch and put a fuel cell in the bed of truck and use it that way. just my opinion. your father in law spend some hard hours welding that big old hitch under that truck, plus you would be able to pull pretty much anything you want with it

[The Big M]

Something you may want to consider is weight distribution. Placing saddle tanks ahead of the axle or a fuel cell just behind the cab might be preferable to putting a big tank behind the axle. It may not be a big deal but might be something worth investigating. Kind of depends on what you intend to tow with it.

As for exhaust, I don't think there'd be much difference between side exit behind the axle and rear exit at the bumper. It could make a slight difference in sound with certain configurations but probably negligible in this case.

[beater_renix]

Progress is very slow on this build. I haven't decided what to do with the hitch or the tank yet.

I did get a lead on a local 1972 truck with a 390. Since it's an 8 lug it's a candidate for a front disc conversion as well as power steering. I was originally only interested in the engine, but the guy is looking to move the whole truck for $800. If the good Lord is willing I'll get it and find some place to store it while I pull parts. Having a doner truck in my driveway is not a good way to impress the Home owners Association.

I debate whether I can get all the parts I want off in one weekend and the carcass off to the scrape yard before I get permanent dog house status.

The whole thing sounds like a good deal to me but I do like the advice of people who have done this sort of thing in the past.

[bruceandersson]

Could you take what you need off of it at the current owners place? I think the disk brake/PS upgrade rocks. Make sure to get everything for the brakes, including the proportioning valve. It only takes a couple of hours to get the front end parts off that you need. Pulling the engine/trans should be another couple of hours. The issue is that you end up with a vehicle that can't be easily moved. I'd arrange the pickup with a boneyard up front and make sure they can handle it.

[beater_renix]

So after a long bit of thought I decided to pass on the parts truck. It was a snow plow truck and very likely 4wd, and will not work for power steering conversion. At least that what I'll tell myself. I think the logistics of moving the truck, pulling parts, and scraping it scared me off.

On the bright side I found some more documents in boxes that came with the truck. One of them was the original sales sheet from the dealer.



I'm not sure if it's legible but the truck was purchased for $2825.00. Also a record book was kept meticulously by the owner. Beginning in the 63 before this truck, ending in October of 86.





Honestly I'm amazed there is a logbook that he carried around with the ORIGINAL receipt of purchase for over 20 years. Even then it was kept around long enough to be passed down to me. I feel quite honored.

Can't say I'm doing it justice.



I'll get there in time.

[unibody madness]

Do the upgrades piecemeal with parts from a pick and pull. Trying to much at once can be discouraging. Brake hoses and a good bleed will be a good start, move on to dual master and vacuum assist, front wheel disk is next if you feel you still need it. Too much at once can be daunting so try and keep it driveable as long as possible.
Welcome to the madness, hope to see more as you progress

[beater_renix]

So I was looking for a a 390 on Craigslist. I found one a guy wanted gone before the week was out and he priced it to move at $50. I flew down to pick it up, and surprise surprise its not a 390. It turns out it's a 460.





Now I'm at a crossroads. I was planning on stroking a 390 to between 429 and 445. Well now I have a 460 sitting in my garage and if I stroke it I'll take it to 521. But there goes the FE engine I was hoping to run. I think to 460 will be significantly less to build.

The Np435 will not mate to it, but I was planning on adding an overdrive anyway. A ZF5 will accommodate that with this engine.

My goal is to keep the functionality of the truck, and have it able to haul, and tow things like it should (read keep the 8 lug, and granny gear). If possible I want it to be a sleeper, and have the power and acceleration to perform that role. I've all but made my mind to keep, and run the 460, but I'm wonder what other slick'sters think?

-Beater

[jalipke1124]

Let your personality run wild. I picked up a 63 with a mild to wild 400 and leaning to stuffing a solid 460 into it, I also have a 64 that I am working towards making a 4 door 4X4 diesel. I guess what I am trying to say make it yours. Just my:2cents: