Wiring

[wheels]

Ok here is the problem I don't know wiring at all and am trying to start a 292 in a 63. I don't have a key for the ignition so I am using a wire to jump the back of the ignition ( battery to ignition post ) and then touching ignition to center post on back of ignition switch. At the solenoid I have the hot battery post to the side of the solenoid with the other wires and on the other side is the hot to the starter. The negative from the battery is to the front of the starter where it bolts to the bellhousing. I tried to turn engine and it worked yes and no the engine would not stop turning. When I stop my connection from the center post at back of ignition so I disconnected my wire at the back of ignition for battery and ignition, engine still turning it would not stop untill I disconnected the hot post at battery. What is going on? all I want to do is start the engine once in a while to keep it loose.

[bobenhotep]

I will check the wiring diagrams.

If all you want to do is turn the engine to keep it from locking up just jump a wire from the "s" terminal on the solenoid to the hot post. On some of them you can use a screwdriver. if you want it to have spark, just hook a hot lead to the pink wire under the dash. It is a resistor wire for the ignition. Unhook it to shut it off.

[bobenhotep]

Dont leave the pink wire hooked up for too long without the engine turning, it will burn the points.

[Toyz]

By jumping as you mentioned you are allowing a feedback which is keeping the start circuit energized.
Safest way would be to buy a remote starter switch to hook between battery positive and the start terminal on the solenoid. Jumper another wire from battery plus wire to the wire removed from the solenoid "I" terminal. By removing this wire from the solenoid before jumping, you should eliminate any starter run-on. Removing the jumper wire "should" kill the running engine; although it is possible to have a feedback from the charging system sufficient to keep engine running. If this happens, you already know the drill!
To avoid this situation , you can run a jumper from Bat + to the coil + terminal with the original wire removed. Both of these described methods will allow full available battery voltage to reach the coil and points; so, as mentioned, don't leave the wire hooked up when not running.
Paul

[Toyz]

Jumping at the ignition switch for coil current may prevent the engine from starting due to reduced available current at the coil while starter is engaged. Running to the "I" terminal allows full available voltage, but may also allow feedback. Jumping direct to disconnected coil + terminal works well, and will not feed back. Just be prepared to remove wire to kill engine. If a manual transmission, you can kill the idling engine in an emergency by selecting the top gear, third or fourth, holding the brake firmly, and releasing the clutch.
Regardless of transmission type, it is worth noting that the vehicle needs to be firmly in Park with and automatic; neutral with a manual, with the emergency brake firmly engaged in both cases.
Paul

[wheels]

Alright it will be another week before I can get to it. I appreciate any help with this thanks again.

[William-in-St George]

Coil needs six volts running and 12 to start. You can run it on 12 but not for long (say 5 minutes). Run a wire from the positive post on the battery to the positive post on the coil (this is your new ignition switch). Use a sort wire (10 gage or so) and jump from the positive post on the starter relay to the S post on the relay (this is your starter switch). Be sure your in neutral, few drops of fuel down the carb for prime and fire it up. If you need to run the truck like this for longer than a few minutes connect a ballast (reduces 12v to 6 and keeps the points happy). IMHO!