Slick 60's

I have thrown out a few posts. We have a '64 F100 with a 223 in it. The truck has not been driven in 20 years. It has passed owner to owner and I have no idea what the history is. We replaced plugs, wires, points, cap, rotor, fuel lines, fuel pump, and cleaned the tank. The carb has been rebuilt by the last owner. He told me had it running by pouring gas into the carb.
When we try to start it it rolls over 6-8 times and backfires through the exhaust. I have checked the firing order and it is right. Any ideas what I might be missing?

Someone correct me if I am wrong but if I remember a backfire through the exhaust is a carb problem and a backfire through the carb is timing.

are you using the choke
check for vacuum leaks mainly missing hoses or caps at this point
check idle mixture
is it the holley carb or the ford carb

either way just because the po rebuilt the carb how long has it sat since and what is the condition inside the fuel bowl.
im assuming the points have the proper gap but the dwell can be checked while cranking

Check bent push rods, rockers siezed, burnt valve. I just went thru this with my son and his 223. It had 2 burnt valves and 2 or 3 bent push rods. You could see where the rockers were gaulded onto the rocker shaft from someone reving the motor trying to keep it running before the oiling system had a chance to get oil to the top end. Once all that was fixed the carb had problems from sitting. It was the old Ford 1 barrel. Something was wrong with excellerator pump that could not be correct by rebuilding and soaking the carb. All above corrected and carb replaced it purrrs like a kitten and makes pretty good power. Valves can be checked by doing a compression test. Rockers and pushrods can be checked by pulling valve cover and cam follower galley. Good luck with it.

Iceman, the carb is a single barrel with no noticeable external markings. This is a 223. The carb was rebuilt and handed to me in a box. It had not been re-attached after the rebuild. I will continue to check all the fittings and caps. I have tried with the choke open and closed. I am not a good mechanic and have done none of this since high school auto shop 30 years ago so it is a bit of a struggle in some areas.
I am hoping we dont have bad valves as I am trying to get it running and road worthy before May 17th so we can make the F100 nationals in Pigeon Forge. I have a 15 year old that is really looking forward to it. Thanks for the insight guys it is appreciated.

Timing chain could have jumped.....
You might get it to run by turning the distributer..... Just to hear it run....

Timing change isn't to hard to replace

i would remove the valve cover and investigate the rockers and pushrods and set the valve gap as that is part of tuning a 223 and the y blocks.

if there is no marking on the carb its the ford carb, its hard to miss the rectangular bowl with the word HOLLEY on it.

I will take a look. Thanks.

Get a hold pf a factory shop manual and help yourself by taking some of the guess work out of it.
I have the same truck and engine setup and they are basic and simple as long as the PO hasn't abused or neglected something (pretty common) Mine would hardly run when I got it and had tons of stuff messed up. Now it runs like a sewing machine, and slightly more powerful good luck and let us know.

shoot some pic of the carb and engine, closeup, etc.

Just curious, is the truck in your avatar the one your talking about? because IT looks like a 65-66? and they don't have 223's. sorry just trying not to get us all confused here.

You also might want to run it initially off an auxiliary gas tank to make sure the current lines and tank are not causing any issues.

Bird55, the vin claims it is a 1964 and so does the title. It has been pointed out to me by a couple others that it doesn't look like a 64. I am not sure what makes it look different because I have seen other 64s that don't look different to me but, I am still learning. The fuel lines have all been changed and I pulled the tank and cleaned it with diesel fuel some time back so it was clean and dry before my issues started. I have a shop manual on CD that I picked up awhile back. Its a learning process and I appreciate every bit of info coming our way. Just getting frustrated at my lack of progress I suppose. But, I have a 15 year old who actually owns and is financing a great deal of this as his first vehicle so I have major Dad obligations and standings to uphold.

it has a 66 upper valance and grille.

engine in the pic in your album is either 223 or 262 cant tell from what is shown but definitely 64

Interesting. I had no idea. I am fairly confident that the motor is a 223. I hope so, everything I have bought is for a 223 anyway and I was told that it was a 223. Seems like maybe the vin identified it as a 223 also. I am suprised on the grille and vallance. Good info to know though. Thank You.

Easy way to tell which one it is if it has a straight axle under the front its a 64 if it has twin I beams then 65-66 . There are plenty of trucks out there with the wrong grill and valance due to accidents or just personal preferance soooooooooooo the front axle will tell the tale.


Rick

Also appears to have side badges and later side trim not of 64. Still could have a 223 that some added I guess. I'm no expert that's for sure. the one engine pic in your album appears to to be a 223.

A 223 will have the carb and intake and exhaust on the drivers side of the engine. The 240 that was standard in the 65 and 66 is just the opposite.

IF it is a '64, look at the Vehicle Identification Number, (VIN).
The fourth digit in the VIN is the engine code for the original engine.

A VIN of 'F10B... is a 262 engine.
A VIN of 'F10J.... is a 223 engine.

Now the next question is, is it the original engine?

BarnieTrk

Backfiring through the carb is usually leanness, or a vacuum leak.

I would check firing order in the trouble shoot. Then timing and timing chain.

I noticed you didn't mention replacing the condenser. If you didn't replace it, you should. If you did, check that the condenser and distributor are both well grounded. Check point gap on a couple of different cylinders to ascertain gap remains the same. Be certain the "I' wire at the solenoid is connected and providing starting voltage to the coil. Hang a known good spark plug on the number one plug wire, ground the plug with a jumper or by holding against metal with an insulated tool. Have someone try to crank engine. If a good spark is noted, it's on to the fuel system.
Check for fuel delivery both to pump and carb. If loosening the line at the pump inlet indicates fuel, loosening the fuel line at carb should result in gas seepage if fuel is getting there. If you don't have fuel at pump inlet, introducing a small amount of compressed air into tank through the filler with an air nozzle and a towel should allow fuel to reach the removed fuel pump line if there is no problem with tank pickup or fuel level. Your carburetor may have a screen at the inlet which may have accumulated enough trash to be blocked. Carb inlet valve may also be stuck closed. My test for fuel problems involves an aerosol can of Berryman B12. Spray it in the carburetor bowl vent until it overflows back out. Spray just a little into the butterfly. Mop up any spilled fuel onengine. REINSTALL THE AIR CLEANER, and have something to blanket a fire handy. A backfiring engine can create quite a fire when combined with fuel or extremely flammable solvents.If the engine starts or makes a better attempt; it's time to recheck the fuel system, including the carburetor.
Easy external check for loose timing chain is to grab crankshaft pulley and rock back and forth until additional resistance is felt. This is a good indication of the free play in the chain. Also note that indicated TDC may be incorrect; check by bringing #1 to actual TDC and comparing to mark.
Paul

Hey Zach, where are you and your Dad located? Maybe one of us is close to you and might be able to help out a little?