Slick 60's

I have my truck wiring completed. I used the EZ Wiring Harness. They supply a diagram for generic Ford. I have the Round Gauge Instrument Panel with ALT Light.

Possible Stumbling Blocks(Mine Anyway);

ALT Light - I Terminal(ALT Exciter White) of the Voltage Regulator goes to one side of the Altenator Dash Light the other side of the ALT Light goes to gauge power. If this is not hooked the battery will not charge. This is not in their diagram. On the EZ Harness the white wire runs to the fuse box.

Dura Spark Ingnition - Pink Wire (Coil Pos.) goes to one side of a Ballast Resitor((Mounted Mine on Firewall), also to Red Wire on Dura Spark Module(12 volts Ingnition on). Other side of the Ballast Resitor goes to the coil and "I" Terminal of Starter Soliniod(7 volts to coil during run and 12 volts during start).

Ingnition Switch - The extra terminal on the side is NOT Assecorie. (I tried to use it instead of the threaded post.) I read somewhere it was the same.

Single Speed Wiper Switch(5 Lug) - The terminal by itself is 12 volts, not ground.

Gauges - Oil Light Takes 12 volts, other side Oil Sensor, Fuel Gauge and Temp Gauge wire use 5 volts from constant voltage regulator on Gauge Panel. Other side goes to sensors.

Steering Column - Kit comes with GM Style Harness Side Connector, I order the Coulmn connector from Summit, it reall simplified things.

To reuse stock connectors, I order high Quality terminals with the locking tab. This worked for Ignition, Light Switch, Voltage regulator.

I used GM Style Weathertite connectors for - Firewall Connector, Parking Lights, Dura Spark Box, Distributor, Rear Light Harness, Dash Dissconnect Harness. Very nice connectors. Easy to work with.

GREAT INFO ON THIS SITE FOR - Ignition Switch, Light Switch.

Otherwise their instructions were great and very staright forward. Nice Harness for around 100 bucks, I would use it again.

I used the american autowire kit on a single wire GM alt.... I guess this made it alot easier... I also installed custom gauges to clean up the dash of old wires...

cwindsor wrote:I used the american autowire kit on a single wire GM alt.... I guess this made it alot easier... I also installed custom gauges to clean up the dash of old wires...

I really though about going that way and the GM Style Ignition and Distributor combo, would have elminated alot of wiring and really simplified things. I did rewire my dash, manily because I wanted to be able to easliy dissconect it. This really paid off in the process of getting this thing wired.

My biggest mistake was ripping every wire from the truck then waiting five years to re wire.

This is some good information.
Would one of the moderators move this post to the hints and tricks area so we can find it again later on?
Thanks.

Good info; a little more particulars on ignition: Duraspark I boxes (red grommet at box) DO NOT use a ballast resistor; Duraspark II (blue grommet) DO!
You will not, in most cases, see 12 volts at coil during start with either system; what you should see is slightly less than available battery voltage (after starter draw). Duraspark II should see reduced voltage at coil while running, although with working charging system, less coil amperage used, it may not drop to 7 volt range. Duraspark I can vary voltage according to need. White wire, sometimes hooked to solenoid "I" terminal, triggers a spark retard to help starting. For wiring purposes, it's job is immaterial; it just requires full batttery voltage from solenoid during cranking to work effectively.
If you are probing dis-connected wires at coil, you should see within 1 volt of available battery voltage, whether switch is in start OR run position. With wires connected, and engine running, you should see reduced voltage compared to full battery (charging) voltage, especially with Duraspark II or points ( resistor wire or ballast resistor). Duraspark I supplied voltage is dependent on secondary resistance.
Confused yet?
Paul

ALT Light - I Terminal(ALT Exciter White) of the Voltage Regulator goes to one side of the Altenator Dash Light the other side of the ALT Light goes to gauge power. If this is not hooked the battery will not charge. This is not in their diagram. On the EZ Harness the white wire runs to the fuse box.

Jonas I have a question. This was very helpful and got my alternator charging but I'm not getting the alternator light to come on when the key is in the run position and the engine is not running. I wired the alternator bulb in series with the 5 volt transformer gage power and the other to the voltage regulator on the I wire as specified by my alternator paperwork. Is a special bulb required due to the 5 volt source