snapped STUD @ donut gasket on 6 cyl (65F100)

jhewitt · Post by **jhewitt** » July 31, 2011, 7:42 am

Before I get into a LONG job that's NOT worth it I need suggestions.
I snapped the OUTSIDE stud off even with the exhaust manifold, my questions.

a) Can this stud be removed / drilled out from the bottom, with starter removed for more clearance?

b) On this 6 cylinder, can the exhaust manifold be removed WITHOUT removing the intake? Removing both proably isn't an option at this point.

c) If anyone has done this while ON the engine any suggestions?

d) What would be the correct DRILL & EASY OUT to use?

e) It appears that there is a sheet metal tube that's flared out that is pressed into the cast iron part. Is this as factory? Or rigged by previous owner?

It's a 6 cylinder in a 65 F100, pretty sure it isn't a 300, I have considered just taking some JB weld the flare to flare since as of yet haven't found if engine is stable and worth pulling the manifolds.
THANKS FOR ALL SUGGESTIONS AND HELP!

R Pope · Post by **R Pope** » July 31, 2011, 8:32 am

Both manifolds come off together.
I did a "temporary" fix with a big pair of locking pliers, just to get home, y'know? Two years later it was still working! "If it works, don't fix it!"

DukeRoche · Post by **DukeRoche** » July 31, 2011, 8:33 am

Not sure about your 6, but if I remember correctly on my 262 the exhaust and intake manifolds came off together. At least I think thats what happened.

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » July 31, 2011, 9:25 am

Personally, I'd take the manifold out and have a machine shop do the job for me. That way, if it screws up, they can put in a thread insert.
But if you want to give it a go, take a good look at the manifold and try to imagine if you can get your drill in place to drill the stud out.
If not, take the manifold out anyway so you can work on it.
If you can get your drill in place, do the following.
First, soak the stud area with PB Blaster for several days.
I like to tap the stud area with a hammer while I'm doing this.
If you have room to work, remove the exhaust pipe and use a center punch to mark the center of the hole you're going to drill.
Start with a #40 drill and try to keep it centered in the stud as much as possible and try to drill all the way thru.
Follow up with a 1/8 drill, then a 1/4".
Enlarge the hole as much as possible from here on to use the largest easy out you can without distorting the thread surface of the stud.
Use a "twisted" style easy out, not the square one.
Before you start to unscrew the stud, take a propane torch and heat the area up pretty good. Red hot is not necessary. Use a hammer and tap on the end of the easy out to add some shock to the process.
Use gloves and unscrew the easy out. Take your time.
Good luck.

unibody madness · Post by **unibody madness** » July 31, 2011, 11:23 am

I just did this on a 223 exhaust,
I would highly recomend removing the manifold from the vehicle.
It is almost impossible to do it without mishap from underneath.
I ended up enlarging it til it was threads only. and using a 3/8th tap after knocking the top thread out,I slowly cleaned out the threads.
I do not see how i could have done this upside down, covered in grease and oil, in the dark.
John

Lowell · Post by **Lowell** » July 31, 2011, 1:19 pm

Its not too difficult of a job to remove the malifolds on a 240 six. Swapped mine out from a parts truck a few years ago due to a cracked exhaust manifold.

Roger Carter · Post by **Roger Carter** » July 31, 2011, 6:34 pm

Here's my

I have never had good fortune using an Easy-Out on an exhaust manifild stud, whether in or out of the vehicle. The head pipe studs are usually an interference type thread and under the best conditions the studs come our hard.
When you break off the Easy-Out you work has just begun. Trust me.

If the engine, and it's future in the truck, is uncertain, I would take R Pope's advice.

If you want to "properly" repair it start with Uncle Skip's lesson plan, but dont use the Easy Out. Carefully work up to the tap drill for the proper thread size, then re-tap the manifold. This requires a careful locate of the center of the stud, and a bit more time, but for me has always worked the best.
Good Luck.

Roger Carter

fire truck · Post by **fire truck** » July 31, 2011, 6:47 pm

I'll pass on a trick from an old mechanic that I've had great luck with....

Lay a nut centered on top of the stud, thread it on if possible. weld the nut to the stud. gives you something to grip and heats it up too.

R Pope · Post by **R Pope** » July 31, 2011, 7:01 pm

If you take the manifold off, you can blow the stud out with a torch. The cast manifold won't be harmed by the torch.

Tech · Post by **Tech** » August 1, 2011, 12:27 am

A trick from my dad
you need a wire feed welder
drill a hole most of the way through the stud
set a nut over the broken stud
Take the wire feed and in one pass down the middle fill up the stud and the nut with weld.
let it fully cool A little lube couldn't hurt
The heat down the middle of the stud shrinks it as it cools.
A little jiggling and your home free

66fordtrucknut · Post by **66fordtrucknut** » August 7, 2011, 7:01 am

Agree with all of the welding solution above, absolutely take it off. I deal with this all the time in the marine industry but I'm blessed to be a welder and have the right equip at work to make the job easier. I use a tig welder and weld a blob on top of the stud where I can get a pair of vise grips on it (if it's sheared off flush) or weld a nut on if theres something to weld to. Also the best penetrating fluid I've found and is cheap is a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF esp on rust, good luck.
Charlie

fire truck · Post by **fire truck** » August 9, 2011, 7:22 pm

Did ya git-r-done?

jhewitt · Post by **jhewitt** » August 14, 2011, 9:57 am

I've recorded each, still thinking on it, may smear JB weld on the pipe flanges for now, haven't driven enough to determine if engine is worth more work. GREAT IDEAS guys, thanks

snapped STUD @ donut gasket on 6 cyl (65F100)

snapped STUD @ donut gasket on 6 cyl (65F100)

My decision