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drag link question
Posted: May 30, 2011, 6:57 pm
by RangerSteve62
So I noticed that my driver side front tire is getting a nice groove rubbed into it. I traced it to my nice shiny drag link... probable not good.... when I was checking it out I noticed that the drag link shifts right and left when I move it with my hand. I am thinking that the bushings are worn and 49 years old.
My question is, are they supposed to move that much. I never had the clearence issues with the wheels before.
Can I buy just the bushings or do I need to replace the entire drag link.
Posted: May 30, 2011, 7:02 pm
by MadMaxetc
you shouldn't have any movement on anything under there. You will have to replace the drag link.
Posted: May 30, 2011, 7:06 pm
by RangerSteve62
thanks... I figured that, but thought I would ask some experts... is there any major differences in quality between; LMC, Dave Carpenters, ect...
Posted: May 30, 2011, 7:08 pm
by MadMaxetc
I got mine from O'Reiley's. Good Moog parts. NAPA, Autozone, etc... they will all have them. They need to use the book, but you don't have to pay for shipping.
Posted: May 30, 2011, 8:17 pm
by Brian Taylor
Moog - Drag Link
Part Number: DS658
Line: MOOG
UPC: 80066124889
They run about 107$
Posted: June 1, 2011, 9:05 pm
by RangerSteve62
Diclaimer- I am brand new to the world of slicks and the world of restoration/mechanical work. Please bear with me, I am sure there will be many many more questions that I ask you guys. Anyway-
So I ordered my new drag link... and I wanted to take the old one off but I am running into a problem. I have taken the castelated nuts off both ends but the pittman arm is not coming off the bolt. Is there a special trick to this?
I am running into the same problem with the other end of the drag link. THe bolts came off rather easy.... So I dont think it is a rust issue, plus the grease has it pretty coated...I have no idea...

Posted: June 1, 2011, 9:10 pm
by ezernut9mm
you sir, need a pickle fork.
Posted: June 1, 2011, 9:13 pm
by RangerSteve62
is that to stab myself in the eyeball from frustration or does that actually serve a purpose?
Posted: June 1, 2011, 9:15 pm
by ICEMAN6166
you will need to put the pittman back on the shaft to make it easier.
Posted: June 1, 2011, 9:17 pm
by ezernut9mm
brian, your pic link is broke.
steve, it goes between the drag link and pitman arm and forces them apart. they sell really cheap. like around ten bucks.
Posted: June 1, 2011, 9:19 pm
by ezernut9mm
Posted: June 1, 2011, 9:21 pm
by tray
Most parts stores will rent you the tool and refund your money when you bring it back.
Posted: June 1, 2011, 9:24 pm
by RangerSteve62
awesome... thanks everyone... Ill post picks when Im done
Posted: June 2, 2011, 8:58 am
by Fanatic
make SURE you put the pitman arm back on where it was or else your steering wheel will be off center and your turning radius will be messed up
Posted: June 2, 2011, 9:40 am
by ICEMAN6166
Fanatic wrote:make SURE you put the pitman arm back on where it was or else your steering wheel will be off center and your turning radius will be messed up
Tim
i dont think you can put it on in the wrong place as there is a groove on the shaft for the bolt if its not lined up the bolt wont go thru.
Posted: June 3, 2011, 8:48 pm
by RangerSteve62
Posted: June 3, 2011, 9:10 pm
by MadMaxetc
Realy glad you got it fixed!
Now you should look at the tie rod ends. They are probably colse to gone if the drag link was shot. Be warned, you will need to get an alignment done after.
Posted: June 3, 2011, 9:11 pm
by ICEMAN6166
ya done good !
now keep them joints greased up good and it will last many years.
Posted: June 3, 2011, 11:04 pm
by ezernut9mm
cool. glad you got it all done up right.
Posted: June 3, 2011, 11:14 pm
by Greg D
If you are going to drive her alot you may consider this too;
http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2647
Nothing like real solid stopping power.
Great job on the repair.