manifold and carb set up

good2bea9 · Post by **good2bea9** » November 19, 2010, 6:56 am

So I finally decided to drive her(truck) to work today, and wouldn't you know it the carb began to leak! Symptom: like someone is pouring gas over the top of the carb, just flowing out of it!

Solution: buy a newer intake manifold and carb set up from a newer 300.

Question: what will fit my 66 240 I6 set up? Want to keep carb(not TBI/fuel inj) and go to a two barrel carb.

Thank you for your time and assistance. David

Post by **foodstick** » November 19, 2010, 10:50 am

Sounds like bad float setting or the valve (pin/plunger) float controls is bad..

I am not the best carb guy, but have been up against this before.

Also friend has an older truck with an electric fuel pump..it had to be restricted because it would over power the old carbs float control also.

Gas overflowing a carb on a running motor makes chills go up my back like nothing else...

before you buy new...try a rebuild,
make notes , take pictures when taking apart, soak it in a cleaner, blow openings clean with air compressor reassemble.. the part package will have a exploded view.. These carbs are simple enough I EVEN HAVE DONE A COUPLE OK ..

I have no tuning ear though...

Hopefully someone with more talent at carbs will be along soon !

Brian Taylor · Post by **Brian Taylor** » November 19, 2010, 11:23 am

Needle and seat get dirty and will not stop the flow to the bowl and it will over flow as you stated.
If you want to change just due to that, please just rebuild it and clean it up and set it to the rebuild specs and it should be fine.
If you want to up grade to an aftermartket intake you are limited to Offenhauser and Clifford intakes, I have a Clifford with 2bbl carb. You can run a 4 bbl 500cfm or less but with a 4 to 2 adapter you can run a 2bbl carb. This will cost much more money than a rebuilt carb.

good2bea9 · Post by **good2bea9** » November 19, 2010, 11:55 am

Thanks, I did rebuild it recently and it was dong just fine, until this morning! I know another rebuild kit is only about $15.

Brian, I was looking for an intake for a 300 with a carb but I have been interested in the Offie/Clifford for awhile now. I plan to keep my I6 so maybe now is the time to just bite it and buy one of the two!

Thanks again for the input.

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » November 19, 2010, 7:18 pm

I have the Offy-C and a 500cfm Edelbrock Carb on my 300. For a 240, I would go with a duel plane and a 2 barrel or a 390cfm holley.

If you ever plan on upgrading to a 300, and reusing your 240 head, I would get the Offy-C and the Edelbrock.

R Pope · Post by **R Pope** » November 20, 2010, 1:49 pm

On my '66 I swapped in a carb and electronic ignition from an '83 truck. Got rid of the awful Load-a-matic setup and got a real centrifugal advance with the swap.
You have to use the newer carb with the centrifugal advance dist. because the advance vacuum comes from a different source and just won't work. I suppose if your carb was good you could run manifold vacuum to the dist., but you want to chuck the carb anyway.
My Slick runs and starts way better with the electronic ignition, by the way.

62galxe · Post by **62galxe** » November 20, 2010, 1:57 pm

If your gas tank or fuel lines are rusty you will have problems with the needle and seat in the carb. Take the top off the carb and see if you have trash in the float bowl.

unibody madness · Post by **unibody madness** » November 20, 2010, 2:10 pm

This exact same thing hapened on my sons 223 after a carb rebuild and we found the float had a pin leak causing it to fill up with gas and canceling out the needle valve

I agree with foodstick on the chivers!!!