Slick 60's

I think that the two wires that used to go to the brake light switch are fine candidates for a tachometer sender wire, and a sender wire for the O2 sensor. that could potentially eliminate a lot of damn wires...

I just pulled the bed off by myself last night. I figured that if Egyptians could move stone blocks that weighed more than an M1 tank, I could move a truck bed. Now to weld, weld, and weld some more...

ha I think there were more then one egyptian per stone though! good job I love the updates!

Thanks. The underside of the bed and the frame aren't nearly as messed up as I thought they were. I want to repair damage, paint and put everything back together. I am really tempted to use a flat or satin white on the whole thing, so I can land at the numerous car shows here in Las Cruces and actually enjoy them instead of worrying about keeping the wagon shiny.

makes sense to me! I was thinking of doing the same thing, sure makes it easy to take care of.

I also measured the wooden blocks under the cab. they are 1 1/2 inches by 1 3/4 inches and the 1 1/2 inches is how tall they are. My neighbor is a cabinet/ furniture maker with a large scrap pile and he told me I am welcome to it.

The bed is back on. I did some work to make the choke tube work and I must say it works well.

Bobenhotep,
You know we need pictures...I need some motivation to finish my bed that is setting on a trailer, with most of the welding done waiting on me to get motivated to finish it so,.....where's those pictures ?

ken, you live close enough you can just look over the fence. I will look on the comp and see if I have any pictures of when I had the bed off.

apparently you can link pictures from pinterest to here...

My son will be in Las Cruces for almost 2 weeks starting next week for work. He will be at the Pep Boys. They are setting up the Speed Shops inside the Pep Boys stores all over the country.
If you are near there, stop and hassle him just because he needs it.

Kevin

After being hunkered down with bronchitis for a while, then having to drive the family to south padre, it is time to start working on the truck again.

I redid the choke tube setup. I documented the process over in "hints and tricks"

I copied my choke tube write up from "hints and tricks" and added it over here. I am trying to document the stuff I do to the truck as well as how I did it. Hopefully, this is pretty clear and straightforward.

I began by removing the manifolds, and separating them. This is the exhaust manifold. I have begun to drill a 1/4 inch hole through where the old choke tube was, in order to clear the crap and what not out of it.





I flipped the manifold over and drilled the hole out where the fresh air tube was, also with a 1/4 inch twist drill. I drilled a hole in the bottom and tapped it for a 1/8 27 plug. After this is done, you can clean out the inside cavity very easily. I prefer to use an old gun cleaning brush and brake cleaner. Now you don't have to worry about that steel wool crap clogging your choke.





In the last picture there was a short piece of copper tubing with a hole drilled in it. I inserted it into the manifold, with the hole I drilled facing away (down from my point of view).





Then the brass plug goes in the cleanout hole. Not only does it seal the cleanout, but acts as a set screw for the fresh air tube.





In this picture here you can see where I have attacked a piece of 1/4 inch brake line with a tubing bender. It is going to be the new choke tube.





Through the magic of television, I have re assembled the manifolds and attached the carb. I bent a piece of scrap copper tubing to approximate where my bends needed to be. That way I didn't have to bend by trial and error. The bends were close, but the tube was too long.





This is another view of it to show how it is bent.





The tubing cutter is your friend when doing stuff like this.





Now the tube fits. I am going to take it back off and shroud it in a fiberglass insulator.





This is just another view of the choke tube.





I covered the tube in a fiberglass insulator. It is actually a piece of a wood stove door seal from Home Depot. It is a heck of a lot more substantial than the glorified shoelace they give you in the choke tube repair kits. I covered the ends with heat shrink tubing, but you don't actually have to do that.





This shows the tube inserted into the hole that was drilled in the first picture.





This is what it looks like from the top after the fixing is done. This picture also shows a good shot of the bell crank I had to make to get the throttle to work on a 63 truck.





When you get all of the other stuff done, don't forget to run a 1/4 inch fuel line from the fresh air tube on the carburetor down to the air tube on the bottom of the exhaust manifold.

Steering box is pulled and awaiting parts to get it into working order. I am going to use this as an opportunity to do some upgrades to the steering column and electrofunk in the dash area.

I added a headlight relay module. This is the module, and the test picture. There is also a picture of the headlight plug and wiring. I built the easiest to install module I know of at this time. It installs in basically 4 steps.


Disconnect negative cable on battery, then hook up main power lead. This is the 10 gauge wire with fuse holder for main fuse rated at 30a.



Mount module to fender or core support with self tapping screws. Unplug right headlight pigtail and plug it into the module.


Remove headlight pigtails from harness and unscrew from core support. Plug harness ends into headlights. Tie left harness end up so it doesn't short out on anything, or put a dummy plug on it.


Reconnect battery neg cable and test.

This is the engine bay as of 28 DEC 13. I just added the dual master cylinder. I used one for a 68 f100. I had to buy a t to replace the 4 way connector underneath, and extended the line from the back up to the master cylinder. I had to clean all of the bleeders really well, and then I bled everything. It was easier than I thought it would be.

I decided to take the wrong bed off and replace it with a uni bed. I am going to make a copy of an Argentina truck. The bed/ door donor is finally here after I went on a 1300 mile round trip to get it. Should be fun.

I have picked through the uni and the first part I have pulled for my truck is a stock 2 speed wiper motor! It has a weird radio shack setup for intermittent wipers, and the bushings are all good. I plan from here to take lots of pictures and document my trial and error, cut and paste experience. I plan to " use the whole buffalo" so to speak. What I can't use I will sell or give away. I plan on the scrap man shipping as little as possible to China to turn into consumer garbage. Then again, I might weld the leftovers into a weird art object to make the yard a bit more fun. This is New Mexico, after all.

Got off my butt and started fixing cab mounts. The cab was not lined up with the bed and the hood was not lined up, so I had to figure out why. The bed was straight, everything else was not. So before swapping on the uni bed I took the time to align the cab and the front sheet metal. This required work under the cab. It is a pain for sure, but the progress feels good. After this I can finally start blasting on the uni bed.

Dan