Slick 60's

sixty6

Check with your local Powder Coaters. Here in my neck of the woods I can get a frame sand blasted and powder coated for about $300.00, my transporting costs included. I've found a couple of heavy fabrication shops that are willing to take on the extra work for a really inexpensive price. One of the shops fabricates security gates like you find at storage facilities and they are happy to have some extra work. The only thing is I have to be willing to work around their schedules, not a problem for me. I degrease and clean the frame before i take it to them so all they have to do is blast and coat.

I've done 3 frames in the last couple of years and it's going to be off to the powder coaters from now on. I bought a cheap sand blaster from harbor freight and it still takes the better part of 2 days and a big mess to get a frame ready to paint, then it is almost impossible to get every little crack and crevise painted. My opinion only but I feel it is cost effective and the finished product way better. If you do go that route do all the frame mod's you are going to do before you take it to the powder coaters.

I had a co-worker introduce me to a product called " OSPHO ". A gallon jug will treat 600 square feet of rusted surface. I paid $22 for a gallon at my local Ace Hardware store. Can be brushed on or put in a spray bottle. You will have to do a top coat of paint or something to seal it up after using OSPHO. On my 65 I was planning on using rattle cans just to keep the cost down and to see how well it would hold up for a daily driver. My local Home Depot has budget rattle cans in black for under a dollar a can. Buy in the case form and you find that it is made by rustoleum.

oldtrucks: I have strongly considered sandblasting and powdercoating. The companies around here are looking for closer to 500. Dont think the budget has it in it.

simonscr:my budget likes your suggestion. I will be checking into ospho.

TxSlick66 wrote: Of course this is in Texas, so no rust bothers anything.

yes thats why when i lived down in Houston and worked in the machine shops we sprayed all the parts with rust inhibitor as soon as they were done, otherwise the humidity would have them coated with spots of rust in a few hours.

Greg D wrote:

hungrymonkey wrote: I did have it fail on the inside floor pans of my 67 mustang. It peeled up like and had moisture under it. The car sat outside for a few years. The POR on the underbody and engine bay held up beatifully.

Were the pans exposed to the sun during that time?
POR is not UV stable - has to be covered from the sun, paint, top coat, carpet, etc.
Eastwoods product is UV stable.
I use mostly the flat Eastwood stuff - mainly use it for a primer.
I always top coat either one in exposed areas - use Rustoleum for top coat.

Nope. I had the carpet installed. Which got soaked with rainwater. Then cooked in the summer heat. It caused the POR to lift and bubble. The bubbles were filled with water in some areas. It peeled off with a paint scraper.

I emailed the company and they said that I prepped it wrong. Which is possible. I did the interior floor pans last, and used a gallon can. So it had been opened and closed several times while I painted the underbody.

Ice: What do you use up in your neck of the woods?