motor mounts
motor mounts
I am goeing to replace the 390 in my 65 for a fuel injected 302. I hope it will be better on gas. What I need to know is what do I have to change my motor mounts to or can I still use the big block mounts. Thanks, Gene
You will either have to add an aftermarket crossmember with the small block towers or find a set of the small block towers from a late 60s or 70s truck. They will however just bolt in so changing them is easy.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
- jimbob1021
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- FORDBOYpete
- Posts: 850
- Joined: July 21, 2006, 8:30 am
- Location: East Central Florida USA
Gene,
I don't mean to be disagreeable, however OEM Crossmembers from 65 & up in the 2Wd F series are virtually all the same. Thus buying aftermarket replacement is not necessary on F Series trucks with the twin I beams.
OEM Windsor style Engine mounts will bolt in & work fine. An OEM trans & exhaust system will also fit & work fine. just pick a F Series built after 65 that came with a 289 - 302 - or 351W and it will have all you require.
You may have to diddle around with the tranny linkage if you're going to an AOD style A/T but again "F Series" stuff for the C-4 will work for the manual control valve, but you'll probably have to use a TVR Cable from engine Donor vehicle for correct throttle Valve (aka Kickdown linkage).
EFI & AODs were not available in the right F-Series years to get such TVR from a truck. . . . .
If I'm wrong somebody correct me here. . . .
FBp
I don't mean to be disagreeable, however OEM Crossmembers from 65 & up in the 2Wd F series are virtually all the same. Thus buying aftermarket replacement is not necessary on F Series trucks with the twin I beams.
OEM Windsor style Engine mounts will bolt in & work fine. An OEM trans & exhaust system will also fit & work fine. just pick a F Series built after 65 that came with a 289 - 302 - or 351W and it will have all you require.
You may have to diddle around with the tranny linkage if you're going to an AOD style A/T but again "F Series" stuff for the C-4 will work for the manual control valve, but you'll probably have to use a TVR Cable from engine Donor vehicle for correct throttle Valve (aka Kickdown linkage).
EFI & AODs were not available in the right F-Series years to get such TVR from a truck. . . . .
If I'm wrong somebody correct me here. . . .
FBp
Change is the Only Constant
Pete, who are you disagreeing with? I want to point out that you started this post like many others with an unwarranted negative comment. Nobody said anything about not doing what you said. In fact, there was only two responses and one was about springs and the other was about either using aftermarket mounts or stock mounts which he mention bolt in and are easy to use. Both options are viable and people use both daily. So whats your beef? At least have the courtesy to read peoples posts before disagreeing with them or it may make you look kind of silly. Hawkrod
- Johnny Canuck
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This post seems to be "an unwarranted negative comment". Pete has a lot of info that he tries to share, filling in the blanks, so to speak. If he disagrees with someone, there's a reason. And he will be the first to admit when he's wrong.Hawkrod wrote:Pete, who are you disagreeing with? I want to point out that you started this post like many others with an unwarranted negative comment. Nobody said anything about not doing what you said. In fact, there was only two responses and one was about springs and the other was about either using aftermarket mounts or stock mounts which he mention bolt in and are easy to use. Both options are viable and people use both daily. So whats your beef? At least have the courtesy to read peoples posts before disagreeing with them or it may make you look kind of silly. Hawkrod
"So whats your beef?"
Mike C
64 CC, Crown Vic project
62 CC
67short 94 F150, 433W
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive body, but to skid in sideways - body worn out and screaming: Woo Hoo, what a ride!"
64 CC, Crown Vic project
62 CC
67short 94 F150, 433W
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive body, but to skid in sideways - body worn out and screaming: Woo Hoo, what a ride!"
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ICEMAN6166
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no new crossmember is needed when going from 6 to 302 or FE or the reverse.all that is needed is the towers from the engine you plan on using
and the placement in the proper holes in the crossmember.300 6 and 302 use the same holes/ pieces.
in installing a 292 in a 66 f250 4x4 frame i had only to remove the rivets and move the front crossmember forward 2".cost was 4 grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers.
the only time i ever had to buy anything else for an engine swap was in replacing a 400 with a 429 in a 79 f100 4x4.i had to buy the rubber engine mounts from L&L, otherwise it was a bolt in.
and the placement in the proper holes in the crossmember.300 6 and 302 use the same holes/ pieces.
in installing a 292 in a 66 f250 4x4 frame i had only to remove the rivets and move the front crossmember forward 2".cost was 4 grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers.
the only time i ever had to buy anything else for an engine swap was in replacing a 400 with a 429 in a 79 f100 4x4.i had to buy the rubber engine mounts from L&L, otherwise it was a bolt in.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
He never said anything about changing out the crossmember, read it again. He said "add an aftermarket crossmember". Many people do just that. You take out the stock brackets and use a saddle crossmember on top of the stock crossmember. I don't like it but I see people do it and there is nothing wrong with it. HawkrodJohnny Canuck wrote:He was disagreeing with Greg, who suggested changing out the whole crossmember. Quite an unnecessary move.
He never said anything about changing out the crossmember, read it again. He said "add an aftermarket crossmember". Many people do just that. You take out the stock brackets and use a saddle crossmember on top of the stock crossmember. I don't like it but I see people do it and there is nothing wrong with it. HawkrodJohnny Canuck wrote:He was disagreeing with Greg, who suggested changing out the whole crossmember. Quite an unnecessary move.
- Johnny Canuck
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ICEMAN6166
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nothing wrong other than an unneeded expense and more nuts/ bolts/ welding to deal with.Hawkrod wrote:He never said anything about changing out the crossmember, read it again. He said "add an aftermarket crossmember". Many people do just that. You take out the stock brackets and use a saddle crossmember on top of the stock crossmember. I don't like it but I see people do it and there is nothing wrong with it. HawkrodJohnny Canuck wrote:He was disagreeing with Greg, who suggested changing out the whole crossmember. Quite an unnecessary move.
not real impressed with the quality of steel or welding in some of these aftermarket structural parts that i have seen.does not mean all are junk but i would do careful research and want to actually see something like that in person before committing to buy.
i suppose that for folks in some areas the availability of donor trucks/parts could be an issue.and not everyone would want for various reasons to have a bunch of old iron on their property.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
i bought a add in crossmember to install my 390 in my 34 chev the crossmember was horrible the mounting ears were welded one higher than the other so the motor sat an inch lower on the left side was also 2 inches to wide ended up taking 2 inches out of the cross over and cuttining the mounts off and re welding them back on so much for trying to save the time of making my own mounts as in anything reproduction the fit and quality is not always there try to buy new or used oem equipment if you want things to fit and go easily find a donar truck for the parts you need
I agree, many of the aftermarket mounts out there are terrible. I don't like using them, as I noted, but we do not all have the luxury of access to parts. One of the best things about the internet is it allows us to work together to share information. I have ordered a pair of Trans Dapt mounts for my 61 because the 65 and newer stuff does not work but I am anxious about the quality. The last ones I bought were Hurst but they don't make what I want for teh 61. I will likely rebuild the new mounts before I use them! Hawkrod
motor mounts
With a 302 replacement, I was able to reuse mine.
My '66 came to me with a tired 352 up front of the T18 4speed, which I left in place. All I ended up having to do (besides replacing the rubber part of the mounts) was move them back a couple inches and drill new holes. Snug the 302 up to your tranny first<g>
Now I need to find or fab up a radiator shroud. With the 302 installed there's enough room to play handball between the fan and the radiator
My '66 came to me with a tired 352 up front of the T18 4speed, which I left in place. All I ended up having to do (besides replacing the rubber part of the mounts) was move them back a couple inches and drill new holes. Snug the 302 up to your tranny first<g>
Now I need to find or fab up a radiator shroud. With the 302 installed there's enough room to play handball between the fan and the radiator

