Comparing the 65 and 66 slicks

Mellvis · Post by **Mellvis** » September 29, 2006, 11:51 am

I have a 66 standard cab and a 65 Custom Cab. I like the 65 better and the differences ar minimal. The 65 has seen 41 Ohio winters so the cab is shot as well as the core support and inner fenders. That doesm't leave much metal to work with. I think I'm going to combine the two into one good truck.

The question is other than fender emblems, grill, and dash pad, what other visable differences is there between the two? Does the Custom Cab guage cluster wire up the same as the standard cluster?

Thanks, Mellvis

65TremecGT · Post by **65TremecGT** » September 29, 2006, 1:25 pm

I think that is it for differences, the 66's had emergency flashers. I to perfer the 65's

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » September 29, 2006, 1:44 pm

The rad supports are different for another.
66 was the only year of F100 4x4 that the box matched the cab...

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » September 29, 2006, 2:36 pm

Also the bird-beak grille is availalble in repro and the '65 isn't... wanna bet we will be seeing a lot more '66's in the future?

mcarlson11 · Post by **mcarlson11** » September 29, 2006, 9:35 pm

my 65 has factory emergency flashers.

Mellvis · Post by **Mellvis** » September 29, 2006, 9:48 pm

My 65 has flashers, but it is an under dash unit, so I didn't know if it was factory or not.

65TremecGT · Post by **65TremecGT** » September 30, 2006, 12:52 am

I wonder if it ws an option, I have had a few 65's and 66's and the 66's alwyas had them but the 65's didnt. Same with the mustangs between 65 and 66. But nothing suprises me about ford in this era, there is always an new combination being found that I didnt know could be had!

66fordtrucknut · Post by **66fordtrucknut** » September 30, 2006, 5:06 am

I think it was a option in both years ( haz.) it was part of the DOT safety package. 67 I believe was the 1st year it became standard along with a padded dash and dual m/c
Charlie

cdherman · Post by **cdherman** » September 30, 2006, 7:50 am

You can use the 66 rad support easy enough -- just use the radiator from the 66. The inner fenders were the same, so no problem. The battery box may be a little different too.

I don't see any reason not to do what you are contemplating.

There are minor wiring issues with the custom versus basic dash panel. There is only one turn signal indicator in the CC, versus two on the basic, so you put both to one bulb socket. Also the ammeter in the CC requires some different wiring -- I am not sure if its there in 65/66 or whether you would need to do some mods to the wiring harness. And the oil pressure guage (CC has one, right?) requires a different sender. All very surmountable though...... I have not done it, but have read threads about it for 4 years, I would say I am pretty correct.

I would keep the better of the two wiring harnesses any how, as they are going to have been very similar or even identical. If one has been cut up along the way, that's the one to ditch.

Are you keeping the old manual steering? Satisfied with front disk brakes? You like the engine and tranny you have? If you are going to all this trouble and any of these are issues for you, consider finding a 1970's era donor vehicle that has PS, disks, better engine/tranny etc etc. Then you can just start moving metal over to it, once you've stripped it to the frame/drivetrain.

Just a thought.....

Mellvis · Post by **Mellvis** » September 30, 2006, 9:40 am

I really don't want to update anything. I really like the old technology. I want to use all oem Ford stuff that is correct for my truck. I don't drive far and I drive like I'm 70 (no offense to the older, more experienced Slick members!). I don't think I need the beefy brakes and such. I just really like nostalgia and I think the 65/66 was the nicest looking ford truck ever.

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » September 30, 2006, 11:19 am

A word on the brakes.

I some what disagree with the

Mellvis wrote:...I drive like I'm 70...

defence.

There can be 3 causes of accidents on the road:
1) You (...I drive like I'm 70...so you have that coverd)
2) Weather (know your trucks limmits, so you are good there)
3) OTHER PEOPLE! (Can't do ANYTHING about this!)

You can not overlook #3. The vast majority of people on the road do not know that your truck has a 220ft stopping distance at 45mph. They think you can stop, slow down, manuver the same as they can. This is the principal of defencive driving...Everyone else on the road is an idiot! (That is what you have to think in order to keep yourself safe.)

The only thing that you can not think ahead on is someone pulling out in front of you. For this reason alone I would do the Disk Brake upgrade.

If you want to use old, origonal stuff...that is fine (i like it too!). But think of this. Your '65 is 41 years old and the brakes from a '73 F-100 are still 33 years old!

Sorry if I sound a little mad, but I just don't want to see ANYONE have to lose there truck if they don't have to.

On the swap...

The 65 and 66 excange almost everything, use the best wirring you have and I would bench test it before you install it. (Check resistance of each wire.) You don't want to get done and find you have 1 bad wire so now half the things in the truck don't work

It is a big task, so don't just think you can do it in "a couple of weekends"

Good Luck!

cdherman · Post by **cdherman** » September 30, 2006, 11:59 am

Dan is right about brakes. I think it is close to irresponsible to drive a vehicle on the road these days that has not at LEAST had its brakes upgraded to a dual chamber master cylinder.

If you detest the thought of dealing with disk brakes up front, then at least consider this much of an upgrade, or better still, power drum brakes. www.mpbrakes.com can get you the right master and power unit. You'd need to work on the tail=light switch and probably the puch rod, as well as re-plumb the lines (which you should do anyhow, as part of a major restore/build).

6166 Junkyard Dog · Post by **6166 Junkyard Dog** » October 1, 2006, 9:29 pm

Just my opinion here so here it goes, I drive Big Slick sometimes with a 40' trailer with single reservoir all the time no problem, run my 66 wrecker single master cylinder no problem & how about this 56 with 427 Stroker motor that can run access of 130 mpg Oh yes single master cylinder & has been like that since the 70's so to say that it's irresponsible to drive a truck without a upgrade is wrong to say to anybody here is a situation say you come up on a another vehicle stops in front of you all of a sudden hit the brakes with none regardless of single or dual you are going to hit that vehicle & due damage so there is no logic in your statement & I guess that means I am also irresponsible as well Just remember that is what a emergency brake is for to get you to safety for automatics also to down shift or that pedal on the left known as a clutch to downshift to a lower gear & hand brake

cdherman · Post by **cdherman** » October 1, 2006, 10:50 pm

I said "close to" irresponsible.

There are reasons, darn good ones, why modern vehicles ALL have dual chamber master cylinders. And front disk brakes. And seat belts. etc.

If you want to propose some sort of conspiracy theory and suggest that a stock 1965 F100 is as safe as a 2007 F150, you are welcome to do so. I think we are all grown up enough to listen to everyone's position and make our own judgement.

There are times where even the best brakes are not going to save you. But there are times where "better" brakes would have made a difference. I have been there and I am smart enough to see the logic. If you need 250 feet to stop and you have only 200, you have a problem. If you can stop in 199 feet, you are fine....

Moreover, the arguement for a dual chamber master has more to do with fault tollerance. If you have a system that is absolutely critical, like for instance electricity for a hospital, you would be wise to have a backup.
A dual chamber master is that sort of thing -- one half can fail and you can still stop.

Admittedly, you CAN stop with the emergency brake. But that is pretty cumbersome and most of us know just how effective the ebrake is on our slicks (not very). It requires a "pull" motion, instead of a foot brake. Ever wonder why modern vehicles use a different type of ebrake? You have zero mechanical advantage with the the hand activated pull brake. Later foot actuated brakes are better, though I am not going to upgrade...

6166 Junkyard Dog · Post by **6166 Junkyard Dog** » October 2, 2006, 6:55 am

Here is my 2nd opinion,,, & read it for what its worth In a Panic Stop a dual master cylinder might slow you up but you are still going to run into the vehicle in front of you, I really do not care throwing all this garbage about how long it takes to stop a vehicle it takes from the the time you hit the pedal to stop different times for different people on stopping distance known as reaction time & in a panic stop the vehicle does not care if its single or dual cylinder you will not have a enough brakes to avoid hitting that vehicle in front ,,, in a new vehicle you just think your safe with all the modern tech. but I am from old days Do not believe in seat belts or all that fancy air bags... On my 2004 I have had all air bags disc. & Do not wear seat belts for several reasons... Seat Belts are a good thing in some cases like for little children BUT LET ME ASK YOU THIS HOW COME THEY ARE NOT IN SCHOOL BUSES

,, or How come I have people come by in the past & cut there belt since they cannot get out sounds not like a good idea in a burning car,, Oh yes it might save lives but think of this when its your turn to kick the bucket no matter where you are in your safe 2007 truck or hiding in the closet its over,,, Here is a example riding down the road hit a long nose Pete Semi Head on @ 55 mph going in the other direction kiss it good bye air bags & all above is not going to do it with that fancy dual master cylinder unless the man up there says its not your turn yet... When these trucks were built there was not as many vehicles on the roads & idiots out there but speed limits where high & trucks where used for work,,, I have seen so many times that people cannot drive older vehicles because they are used to all these newer items on the newer cars so that is why the upgrades & this is not applied to just slicks but all of the vehicles out there,,, We run the roads all the time & see how many cut in & out of traffic Stop in front of Semi's seen a lot of very bad accidents that all of the above will not save you ,, as far as Hospitals they have back up for the reason to do a job under any condition & that statement does not even compare to this about trucks ,, I can go on & on,, Ever watch movie Tucker, a lot of safe features BUT The govt. did not want it then cause some politician was not having his hand in it to make money,,,Why do you think it came about years later some politician found he can make money off it & pushes it through,,, Just Think about what I have said for a few minutes of course this is my sole opinion & that is the great thing about this site several opinions can turn into one good

like building a truck look at several opinions/ideas before jumping into it no matter what it is always get a 2nd or 3rd opinion

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » October 2, 2006, 11:21 am

Tom I had the MC fail suddenly on my '78-F100 going down a hill full of rush hour traffic at 50 MPH.

If it had been a single pot, I would probably have piled into a few or more of those cars when I went to apply the brake and there was none there. as it was, the dual pot saved my, and a few other's lives, because I could pump it in my panicked state and get enough brakes to stop. Then straight to the brake shop, instead of the funeral home.

That's what CD Herman is talking about, now all my vehicles with juice brakes have dual pots. The very first thing to go in the trash on my '64 was the single pot.

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » October 2, 2006, 1:05 pm

nothing wrong with a single pot if you understand it and keep it in good shape.this means keeping the brake shoes adjusted properly-not all especially the early ones have self-adjusters .also the condition of the lines is very important.checking the fluid level more often is also a good idea.
where you live and the roads you drive, along with the way you use your truck are really the deciding factors.
when i built my 66 i did the conversion because everything was already apart.it is so simple of a conversion that it is worth doing.usually i am putting a slick body on a later 4x4 so its already done except the pedal rod length anyway.

the 2 best upgrades that cost the least and do the most and they are even in importance to me are the dual pot and the headlight relays.
doesnt matter how good your brakes are when the headlights blink out and you cant see anyway.

NYf-100 · Post by **NYf-100** » October 3, 2006, 5:10 pm

Tom,

Not to throw gasoline on the fire, but in New York, new school buses have seat belts. I don't know when they started mandating it.

Bill

NYf-100 · Post by **NYf-100** » October 3, 2006, 5:23 pm

Also, to reply to the original post between '65 and '66 trucks. If the '65 truck is early production, I think the following apply:
gas pedal is mounted to the floor, not suspended
sun visors are cardboard unless the "safety option package" is ordered

The following apply to all '65s I think:
hood bumpers are small oval pieces that push into holes in the fenders and front grille header ('66 has 3 round screw-on bumpers)
flashers were a "dealer option" I believe in '65
no power steering
battery tray is different as well as the radiator core
If it's a 352, the engine is painted black with gold valve covers, not Ford blue as a '66 is
hub caps are the "Coke bottle" style that mount on "innie" rims ('66 use '64 galaxie style hub caps)
seat upholstery pattern on a Custom Cab is subtely different

FORDBOYpete · Post by **FORDBOYpete** » October 3, 2006, 8:17 pm

I am not going to give up my 1.25" thick X 14" diameter front power Disc, Dual Piston, trailer Spcl brakes, or my Dual Chamber, equalized M-Cyl/power disc booster, or my 3" X 11" rear, equalized, drums system either.
I don't use brakes often but when I run the 1/4 it's nice to shut down straight, short & turn at 1st cut back to get my time slips.
Most of the comp' uses 2nd or 3rd cut back. I just get a kick out of winning, slowing quickly, getting off & back to the staging area while others are turning around.

BIG BRAKEs allow me that luxury I believe.
But to each their own I say. . . .

FBp