Suggestions....Bleeding brakes

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Yellardawg
Posts: 84
Joined: August 17, 2007, 4:37 pm
Location: NW Florida (Redneck Riviera)

Suggestions....Bleeding brakes

Post by Yellardawg »

I can't get the bleeder screws to turn....any suggestions? Or am I destined to grab them with vise grips and ruin them????


YD
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DV65CustomCab
Posts: 1497
Joined: July 18, 2006, 4:23 pm
Location: Elizabethtown, PA
United States of America

Post by DV65CustomCab »

Heat 'em up with the torch. Has worked for me on calipers. If it's wheel cylinders, I'd just replace 'em.
Stop The Longbed Hate! :)
'65 F100 Custom Cab bought 2002/Sold 2014
Now: '93 F150 Lightning
Phil
Posts: 2125
Joined: June 1, 2007, 9:37 pm
Location: toledo

Post by Phil »

Use a six sided socket.
Someday I'll get another slick :(
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Yellardawg
Posts: 84
Joined: August 17, 2007, 4:37 pm
Location: NW Florida (Redneck Riviera)

Post by Yellardawg »

DV65CustomCab wrote:Heat 'em up with the torch. Has worked for me on calipers. If it's wheel cylinders, I'd just replace 'em.


What I've been considering
Yellardawg
Posts: 84
Joined: August 17, 2007, 4:37 pm
Location: NW Florida (Redneck Riviera)

Post by Yellardawg »

Heavyhauler wrote:Use a six sided socket.

been tried.


Thanks
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Uncle Skip
Posts: 4695
Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
Location: Pearland, Texas
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Post by Uncle Skip »

Dawg.... and all of you other new Slicksters.
I have to step back and take a deep breath before I answer this question and I don't know a single other member who would disagree with me.
If you can't open the bleeder with a 6 point socket (keep trying until you twist it off) the cylinder needs to be replaced in the base case.
Period.
Seriously, the single most important system on your truck is the brake system, and it has got to be perfect.
No alibis, no excuses.
Spend the money, upgrade to disk brakes, dual master cylinder and replace the system from front to rear before you consider any other improvements.
And I'm talking about replacement of the steel lines too. When you take the old rubber lines off, cut them in half and report back what you see.
I'm betting you can't push a paper clip into the opening on the old rubber.
NO point in killing yourself or some idiot in a Honda who swerved in front of you at 60 mph and slammed on his brakes because you couldn't stop your truck.
I'm done preaching...... for now. :wink:
U@ss
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Yellardawg
Posts: 84
Joined: August 17, 2007, 4:37 pm
Location: NW Florida (Redneck Riviera)

Post by Yellardawg »

Uncle Skip wrote:Dawg.... and all of you other new Slicksters.
I have to step back and take a deep breath before I answer this question and I don't know a single other member who would disagree with me.
If you can't open the bleeder with a 6 point socket (keep trying until you twist it off) the cylinder needs to be replaced in the base case.
Period.
Seriously, the single most important system on your truck is the brake system, and it has got to be perfect.
No alibis, no excuses.
Spend the money, upgrade to disk brakes, dual master cylinder and replace the system from front to rear before you consider any other improvements.
And I'm talking about replacement of the steel lines too. When you take the old rubber lines off, cut them in half and report back what you see.
I'm betting you can't push a paper clip into the opening on the old rubber.
NO point in killing yourself or some idiot in a Honda who swerved in front of you at 60 mph and slammed on his brakes because you couldn't stop your truck.
I'm done preaching...... for now. :wink:
U@ss

Appreciate it.

I'll probably be changing the wheel cylinders in the next few days. The disc conversion will be a while longer in the resto.
fmartin_gila
Posts: 1021
Joined: April 21, 2007, 9:58 am
Location: Mandurriao, Iloilo City, Philippines

Post by fmartin_gila »

Uncle Skip wrote:Dawg.... and all of you other new Slicksters.
I have to step back and take a deep breath before I answer this question and I don't know a single other member who would disagree with me.
If you can't open the bleeder with a 6 point socket (keep trying until you twist it off) the cylinder needs to be replaced in the base case.
Period.
Seriously, the single most important system on your truck is the brake system, and it has got to be perfect.
No alibis, no excuses.
Spend the money, upgrade to disk brakes, dual master cylinder and replace the system from front to rear before you consider any other improvements.
And I'm talking about replacement of the steel lines too. When you take the old rubber lines off, cut them in half and report back what you see.
I'm betting you can't push a paper clip into the opening on the old rubber.
NO point in killing yourself or some idiot in a Honda who swerved in front of you at 60 mph and slammed on his brakes because you couldn't stop your truck.
I'm done preaching...... for now. :wink:
U@ss
Total agreement, the best thing you can do for the safety of the vehicle and your health & longevity. It gets very uncomfortable, and increases the pucker factor termendously when you lose a wheel cylinder on a single system vehicle.
Fred
az63pu
Posts: 25
Joined: August 19, 2007, 10:41 am
Location: Chandler Arizona

Post by az63pu »

if you did the brakes , it is easyest to remove the cal. and put it in the vice and remove it that way. and put some brake fluid on it and let it set a dat...


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