I can't get the bleeder screws to turn....any suggestions? Or am I destined to grab them with vise grips and ruin them????
YD
Suggestions....Bleeding brakes
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Yellardawg
- Posts: 84
- Joined: August 17, 2007, 4:37 pm
- Location: NW Florida (Redneck Riviera)
- DV65CustomCab
- Posts: 1497
- Joined: July 18, 2006, 4:23 pm
- Location: Elizabethtown, PA

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Yellardawg
- Posts: 84
- Joined: August 17, 2007, 4:37 pm
- Location: NW Florida (Redneck Riviera)
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Yellardawg
- Posts: 84
- Joined: August 17, 2007, 4:37 pm
- Location: NW Florida (Redneck Riviera)
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas

Dawg.... and all of you other new Slicksters.
I have to step back and take a deep breath before I answer this question and I don't know a single other member who would disagree with me.
If you can't open the bleeder with a 6 point socket (keep trying until you twist it off) the cylinder needs to be replaced in the base case.
Period.
Seriously, the single most important system on your truck is the brake system, and it has got to be perfect.
No alibis, no excuses.
Spend the money, upgrade to disk brakes, dual master cylinder and replace the system from front to rear before you consider any other improvements.
And I'm talking about replacement of the steel lines too. When you take the old rubber lines off, cut them in half and report back what you see.
I'm betting you can't push a paper clip into the opening on the old rubber.
NO point in killing yourself or some idiot in a Honda who swerved in front of you at 60 mph and slammed on his brakes because you couldn't stop your truck.
I'm done preaching...... for now.
U@ss
I have to step back and take a deep breath before I answer this question and I don't know a single other member who would disagree with me.
If you can't open the bleeder with a 6 point socket (keep trying until you twist it off) the cylinder needs to be replaced in the base case.
Period.
Seriously, the single most important system on your truck is the brake system, and it has got to be perfect.
No alibis, no excuses.
Spend the money, upgrade to disk brakes, dual master cylinder and replace the system from front to rear before you consider any other improvements.
And I'm talking about replacement of the steel lines too. When you take the old rubber lines off, cut them in half and report back what you see.
I'm betting you can't push a paper clip into the opening on the old rubber.
NO point in killing yourself or some idiot in a Honda who swerved in front of you at 60 mph and slammed on his brakes because you couldn't stop your truck.
I'm done preaching...... for now.
U@ss
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
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Yellardawg
- Posts: 84
- Joined: August 17, 2007, 4:37 pm
- Location: NW Florida (Redneck Riviera)
Uncle Skip wrote:Dawg.... and all of you other new Slicksters.
I have to step back and take a deep breath before I answer this question and I don't know a single other member who would disagree with me.
If you can't open the bleeder with a 6 point socket (keep trying until you twist it off) the cylinder needs to be replaced in the base case.
Period.
Seriously, the single most important system on your truck is the brake system, and it has got to be perfect.
No alibis, no excuses.
Spend the money, upgrade to disk brakes, dual master cylinder and replace the system from front to rear before you consider any other improvements.
And I'm talking about replacement of the steel lines too. When you take the old rubber lines off, cut them in half and report back what you see.
I'm betting you can't push a paper clip into the opening on the old rubber.
NO point in killing yourself or some idiot in a Honda who swerved in front of you at 60 mph and slammed on his brakes because you couldn't stop your truck.
I'm done preaching...... for now.![]()
U@ss
Appreciate it.
I'll probably be changing the wheel cylinders in the next few days. The disc conversion will be a while longer in the resto.
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fmartin_gila
- Posts: 1021
- Joined: April 21, 2007, 9:58 am
- Location: Mandurriao, Iloilo City, Philippines
Total agreement, the best thing you can do for the safety of the vehicle and your health & longevity. It gets very uncomfortable, and increases the pucker factor termendously when you lose a wheel cylinder on a single system vehicle.Uncle Skip wrote:Dawg.... and all of you other new Slicksters.
I have to step back and take a deep breath before I answer this question and I don't know a single other member who would disagree with me.
If you can't open the bleeder with a 6 point socket (keep trying until you twist it off) the cylinder needs to be replaced in the base case.
Period.
Seriously, the single most important system on your truck is the brake system, and it has got to be perfect.
No alibis, no excuses.
Spend the money, upgrade to disk brakes, dual master cylinder and replace the system from front to rear before you consider any other improvements.
And I'm talking about replacement of the steel lines too. When you take the old rubber lines off, cut them in half and report back what you see.
I'm betting you can't push a paper clip into the opening on the old rubber.
NO point in killing yourself or some idiot in a Honda who swerved in front of you at 60 mph and slammed on his brakes because you couldn't stop your truck.
I'm done preaching...... for now.![]()
U@ss
Fred

