1966 F100 Build

[MadMaxetc]

Looking good.

[Project66]

I need to establish my ride height so I can position the Jag front clip properly. At least get very close to it. I moved to the back of the frame. I decided to "C-Notch" the rear frame. Looking at an axle flip. Maybe a hanger flip. Whatever works.
The rear frame on these trucks are flared out on the bottom seemingly for the shock clearance. This proved to be a challenge.
I first established the center line which was on the center hole of the rear bump stop. I proceeded to remove the rivets and bracket. Several star cuts with a die grinder and an air chisel made quick work of this.



I found a piece of 4" pipe and cut it about 3" long.



Cut it in half.


Marking the center on the half I placed it on the frame. I wanted it a little high so I will be adding metal later.



Cut the hole leaving the bottom on for now for strength.



Placed the notch in place



Squared up with the frame and welded





I then cut the lower frame section and welded metal on each side to complete the "C" . Made a template for the boxing.



The frame is challenging here at this step. I measured around 2 1/2" and removed the rear lip of the frame and added a gusset on the front.

[Project66]

I have some more frame mods. The truck had a trailer hitch installed. The P.O. cut the bottom of the frame rail off on both sides to make room.


Squared off the cuts and added some metal








The radiator supports and front cab mounts were thin. I took washers, matched up the holes, marked and cut out the metal. I welded them from the top and bottom.

[rickairmedic]

Looks like your moving right along with it looking good .


Rick

[Project66]

I saw a truck that had a clean dash so decided to make that step and build a mild custom. So I filled the dash, glove box and all.


The passenger floor was not bad until I did some welding on some pinholes! We one thing let to another and we got a new passenger side floor pan.



The rear cab corners we not bad enough for patch panels so I made some metal patches and welded them in.


No one makes (that I saw) patch panels for the inner rear cab lowers. The patch is complex. It has ribs and tapers down to nothing. After pulling out most of my hair I took a piece of 16ga steel and cut a piece to size. Then I marked the ribs, I cut slits in the metal to match the ribs. Then I bent the metal out to meet the ribbed areas. The result produced a "V" that was filled with metal.
It took the better part of an afternoon to do both sides but it is not going anywhere .

Drivers side


Passengers side


The cab is mounted for now back on the frame to get the engine location and the jag crossmember lined up where I want it. We have it sitting about 1 1/2-1 3/4 ahead of stock center. Putting a tire on soon to see what it looks like.

[ken462]

that is the same way I fabricated the lower inner cab corners...seems to work and no one will know it but you.

Your project is looking good.

[Project66]

Thanks, Have to finish grinding but it should keep the water/grit out.

[Project66]

Got a 16" wheel and tire combo to aid in the alignment process. The 16" wheel and tire choice seemed a bit small. Going to try to find a 17" or 18" wheel and tire combo.





I need to find a donor steering column now. Any ideas?

[Rusty 63]

Can't you grind a double-d into your existing column?

[MadMaxetc]

Can't you grind a double-d into your existing column?

That's what I did. Well, to a 65 column. Just take your time and do a lot of fit checks. The parts to rebuild the column are cheep.

[Project66]

Sorry , let me be more specific. I want to go with a tilt column with automatic shift

[kstones63]

You said that you used a 91 Jag IFS? Matt had posted to use a 79-86 Jag. Is the 91 IFS the same because that opens it up to make it easier to find the parts?
I have a project coming up that I am considering using the Jag IFS in it and maybe the rear suspenion.

Kevin

[Project66]

Yes a 1991 XJS 12 cylinder. Actually Matt used the original modified column. I think I read somewhere where a 1979-86 150-250 tilt would work.

[Project66]

I tack welded the cross member in and used an 18" wheel to see how it was going to look.

The wheel hub center on this Foose wheel was too narrow to put it completely on the hub.


The cross member ended up being about an inch ahead of the original center. I squared it from several points. One thing to remember is if you are using the top ball joint as a center, remove the shims on both sides so you are working with real measurements. Here on both sides I measured up from the lower rear hole up to the cross member 1 1/2 inches.


The Jag cross member ended up being right on the same path as the old crossmember that was cut away.

[Project66]

After getting the frame level front to back and side to side I welded what I could on the outside rail.
I then made gussets to fit the front and rear of each tower.

I took some 1/8 plate and boxed in the frame and welded the lower boxing to the crossmember




I removed all the old engine mounts leaving the rack structure weak so I made gussets for each side.

[Project66]

Jag Cross Member Shock Mount 1966 F100
Mounting the shocks

Putting the Jag suspension under the F100 is going well. Bought a suspension kit off ebay for under 200.00 shipped. The task is how to mount the shocks. The old upper shock mount location was on the inner wheel well. I have seen several ways to mount the shock. I could not find much info on the shorter shocks used buy our friends down under who have this down pat.
The stock 1991 XJS shock specs are:
Compressed Length 11.875"
Extended Length 18.250"
Travel Length 6.375"

Making a shock mount for the OEM shock would mean making a mount high on the chassis which I was trying not to do.

I found a shock in the garage that will work. Monroe shock part number 5804
Here are the specs:
Compressed Length 8.625"
Extended Length 13.375"
Travel Length 4.750"

It is a way smaller shock and it has similar stroke. With 2" shorter stroke I must make sure that I have the upper mount positioned for optimum travel.


The problem with this shock is that it has the wrong set up on the bottom. It has the forked 2 bolt end on the bushing. I removed this by cutting one end off and pulling it through and removed the rubber. I then cut the OEM shock to remove the sleeve.

Then I found that the rear shocks have an upper rubber bushing that fits perfectly inside the Monroe shock . I used it for the lower front shock. I placed the sleeve from the OEM shock in after the rubber went in.

Here the shock is in place on the bump stops. Now for the uppper mount.
Using a grinding disc I had to remove some of the thickness from both sides,( NOT SHOWN ) about 1/8 inch on each side for it to slip in the stock lower shock mount.

I found a lower shock mount left over from a project and cut to fit on the crossmember

Notice the the lower shock washer had to be trimmed to fit inside the opening.

Shock mounted loose before finish welding it in.

Once welded in, the suspension was removed for disassembly and rebuilding. I will spare you the details of sand blasting and painting.

The upper arms have a cast seam on the top and bottom. I thought it would be neat to remove the seam and emory the upper arm before sand blasting. Still have some finishing to do.

[Project66]

Small Block Chevy in a 1966 Ford F100
This is where am am going to loose some of the hard core Ford guys or all you guys on this forum. I may even be asked to leave. All I can say is the engine was just sitting in the garage. If it was a 572 bbc or a Hemi from Indy Cylinder Heads it would be in there as well. So those of you who still want to watch or those of you who feel a little uneasy you can just cover one eye as we proceed with the build.
Now the problem you will run into is that the Ford firewall and trans tunnel are offset to the passenger side. Probably due to the steering box. So positioning the engine SBC, FSB, FBB, Hemi etc., you will have to offset the engine so you will have room for the bell housing or auto transmission housing.
I put (1) 2x4 and (1) 3/4 board under the front pan and it seemed to clear the rack well. I am going to find a mock up transmission before I finalize the location of the engine.

Here are some rough engine placement photos.

[kstones63]

That engine sits down in between the frame rails really nice, but the question is does it really belong in there? I can ask that question because I did that myself. After I got my truck finished and started taking it to local car shows, I would start to open the hood and then I would start making excuses for it having a SBC under the hood in my Ford truck. That lasted about 2 months and I had found the 4.6L DOHC engine to put in it. I just couldn't live with that engine in my truck and I thought that I could handle it, but I was wrong. This build had been going on for 9 1/2 years so it wasn't pressure from anybody here to make me change it, I did it for myself.

After some heated discussions on this forum, it was kind of accepted and we just didn't talk about that part of the build anymore. I avoided pics of that part of the build. The build was accepted because several good things had come from the build, it was a nice build, Saturn P/W motors, sliding taillight with the fuel cap behind it and several other things.
Don't flaunt pics of the engine and some will be okay with it, others won't. You have things to offer such as the Jag IFS install and good work so just be careful. I am getting ready to do the Jag IFS and IRS in my son's 63 uni so I am looking for all the info that I can get.

It's your truck, your money, just make sure that you will be happy with it before you make a final decision on the engine. If you think that you will start making excuses for it after it is done, like I did, make the change back right now.

Kevin

[Project66]

Kevin,
Great advise. Love to get a link back you your build for some of your ideas.
The purpose of this build is to show how the jag suspension can be put in a Twin I beam Ford F100 which I have not seen completed by anyone in a build step by step.
The 63 as you may have found has a narrow frame height as seen in the Jag swap build by Matt ??? The biggest thing on the 63 is to center the crossmember and move it forward 1-2 inches of center.
I am looking at ride height on my 66. The 63 frame may be higher in the spring area than the 66 not sure. The springs are not designed to be cut and drop springs are crazy expensive. Anyway looking at making spacer plates to drop the front if need be. I have read that 3/4 in will drop the front 1.50-2.00 inches.
Looking for your build link.

[Indy63]

If you have it and it works, go for it. Once you modify the truck, especially with another make suspension, brand loyalty is really kind of pointless and ignorant. It's your truck, your money, and you're the only one it needs to please. I will never understand why some people get bent out of shape over someone else getting a 60-year-old truck back on the road and happening to use what they have available, especially if that person obviously has no interest in doing a correct restoration. That kind of closemindedness pushes people away from sharing info and continuing the existence of these trucks as you are doing. Just my $0.02.

I've enjoyed this build and hope it won't be derailed like others have because you're using a non-factory equipped engine in a custom build. Please carry on.