NEWB with a 64 Shortbox Fleetside

[LRS30]

got the pic.. Thanks Ryan

[LRS30]

I got everything shiftine better, I took the steering wheel off and noticed that the inner sleeve where the shifter goes into has seen better days, so i am gonna address that soon, I made some shift linkage pivot bushings out of aluminum tubing, but they are just tem till I can find some better ones or make some on a lathe.. Do any of the s=aftermarket companies sell good hard bushings,?or what do you guys use with success?

[ICEMAN6166]

you can buy the rubber pieces.

i do not currently have any extra 3 speed column tubes but if you post in the parts wanted section you will probably find one

[LRS30]

OK a second questionis on my passenger exhaust manifold it still has the heat stove/riser/flapper do hickey. But the spring is missing, my qustion isis it open when the wieght is at the bottom or is it closed.. I would really love to find a nice set of headers for it but the old budget is tight right now..

[Anthony]

Where in KY are you??? I am in Huntington WV and I beleive I have a whole 3 speed column here in the garage....... I'll make you a heck of a deal.....

and by the way..... WELCOME from the slickest site on the net.... from West Virginia!!!

[LRS30]

Northern part near Cincy......Let me know how much on the column...

[Gary Seymour]

From Indiana.

You've got a real nice truck and Model A.

[stoney1964]

Hey from another Indiana member!
Welcome aboard!
Stoney1964

[F7BIGJOB]

Hey from another Indiana member!
Welcome aboard!
Stoney1964

Stoney, did you/do you work for 4 Winds?
-Steve.

[Anthony]

OK guys help me help LRS30. I have the 3 speed column out of my donor '66... will this work in his '64? If not a swap in could he use mine for parts?

[HillBillyF100]

I got everything shiftine better, I took the steering wheel off and noticed that the inner sleeve where the shifter goes into has seen better days, so i am gonna address that soon, I made some shift linkage pivot bushings out of aluminum tubing, but they are just tem till I can find some better ones or make some on a lathe.. Do any of the s=aftermarket companies sell good hard bushings,?or what do you guys use with success?

Hey, welcome aboard! I, like someone else mentioned, know enough about trannys to just get myself in trouble..But, I thought I'd send you some links of vendors who I've used for parts on these old trucks.. (if you decide to rebuild the column)
http://www.lmctruck.com/
http://www.dennis-carpenter.com/
http://www.carolina-classics.com/
http://www.classicautoparts.com/

I am sure there are others, but these were all I could think of right now..
Keep us posted!
Brian

[unibody madness]

First off welcome to the site
you have an excellent looking truck

You will find various sites that help with your slick problems...NONE better than this one in my honest opinion...
However there is one site that specifically will help you with your y block questions. I have noticed many members here, go there as well.
"y-blocksforever forum" deals specifically with your motor and any problems you may have. Do a search on heat riser and see what comes up,you may be better off with dual exhaust or just remove the inner workings and bolt it back up. there are lots of options and some great advice there as well
John

[olliesshop]

OK a second questionis on my passenger exhaust manifold it still has the heat stove/riser/flapper do hickey. But the spring is missing, my qustion isis it open when the wieght is at the bottom or is it closed.. I would really love to find a nice set of headers for it but the old budget is tight right now..

I haven't had a spring on mine for years and it looks like it's stuck in the up/closed position (see pic below, right underneath the intake on the backside of the carb). My understanding is there to help warm up the intake manifold/air when it's really cold out, until the engine warms up. But I've been able to manage it with the Choke just fine. Others chime in if you know better.

[fmartin_gila]

When I installed then T5 in my 62, I replaced the Column and all the shifter components for the 3 spd with parts from a 4 spd, so I think I still have all the 3spd stuff collecting dust out in the garage. If there is some way to get the stuff to you from SS, I will throw it all in and bring it along. I will get out to the garage a bit later and see what all I can find. I also still have the 3sp trans and driveshaft if anyone has a need for them.

Fred

[BarnieTrk]

OK a second questionis on my passenger exhaust manifold it still has the heat stove/riser/flapper do hickey. But the spring is missing, my qustion isis it open when the wieght is at the bottom or is it closed.. I would really love to find a nice set of headers for it but the old budget is tight right now..

Hey Ryan - Your red '64 SWB Slick is TOO SWEET!

So what did you determine was the problem(s) with your 3-speed?

What did you determine regarding the 292's heat riser,,,,did you remove it, go to headers, or ????

Your 292 looks really clean! Did you put the finish on the exhaust manifolds? If so, please share with us what it is/how you applied it.
Thanks!
BarnieTrk

[62galxe]

As far as headers go the reds short header works out well.
http://reds-headers.net/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=141

[64 f100]

Welcome , nice ride. First let me educate you on your trucks styleside bed ( fleetseide is GM I'm thinking ) . Second shifter problems are not so easily diagnosed as there can be other problems involved that contribute to the problem. The first thing is to check your body mounts for rot or sag. If, there is rotting going on a cab mount, you have some serious repairs to make before you get to the transmssion. If rust out, then you know what has to be done. Another body mount problem is the rubber bushings, these tend to sag over time ( sqwaush if you like ) which lets the body move around on the frame, constantly changing linkage adjustments. You can't adjust if it doesn't stay put. Once you have established that the cab is solidly on the frame, by getting under the truck and prying on the cab and frame, then you need to check shit and clutch linkage. On te base of the column there should be a little square running length wise with the column just below the shifter arms. In the shifter arms there are two holes that line up to help adjust the linkage. You disconnect the linkage at the transmission and find a drill bit that just fits these holes insert it thru the little sqaure tube and into the hole in the shift arms. You also need to inspect all linkage for wear and worn out buhsings. The clutch linkage is a little more complicated, being a 64 it has bronze bushings that are half moon shaped which go over a ball stud on each end of the bell crank. These are usually worn out, and the balls may have been riding iron to iron, which will wear the ball flat making it neccesary to replace those parts also. The linkage from inside the cab to the bellcrank has plastic bushing and once these are gone, it wears the rods. I braze the rods and file to approximate round size., then install new bushings. I think these are the same as Mustangs, but not sure. Doesn't matter I have fixed these by drilling out holes and installing some bushings I bought at Lowes. Still have to weld the rods on the end if let go to long. Trnasmission problems don't happen overnight, and are often made worse by lack of attention to these deatils. It's amazing how well everything works once all new bushings and reapirs are made. At a guess, I don't think you going to get by without going into the transmission. You might be better off just finding a better one. Several members in the club have parts for sale me included, and I live in southern Illinois. However, there are some old tricks for making these transmision work better, if not completely worn out. Kits are available to reapir the transmision but most don't have the good brass shims that came in these. Bearings are bearings and replacing those will help but not neccesarily get you where you want to be. The main trick I learned years ago was check end play on the front input shaft. If there is play between the shafts then shims need to be palce between the front bearing and the input gear to take up the slack. Helps eliminate slop. Originally, you could buy oversized roller bearingsand other little parts to take up slack from worn parts. Hope this helps.
Rich

[65TremecGT]

Nice Pickup and I love the A!

[LRS30]

Update. Lol only a year or two late. I still am running the original manifolds, but a guy in Cali found me a set of ram horns for a hell or a price, so com spring I am going to duals. Long time coming for that. I switched the shift tube, and still have a sloppy shifter. I had a buddy who does vintage transmissions go thru mine, and all was well , cleaned up and new gaskets. In one weekend my fuel pump, starter and generator all took a crap. That was on fathers day of 2012, and I McGivered it enough to get it from Bowling Green ky to home without a tow trust, but it has been sitting since. I have gotten the starter rebuilt, bought a new fuel pump and am switching the gen to a GM one wire alt. I love this truck so much it's sick. It grows on me more and more every time. Mess with it. It is probably the most solid pre 64 vehicle I have ever owned,it still has most of the original paint on it. I am slowly fixing all the previous owner mess ups and wear and tear items to make it right. I hope to upgrade the brakes to power assist, add the dual exhaust, and replace the dash wiring harness and just drive it more and more. My 14 year old son has already claimed ownership of it. It's great to bond with him over it. Thanks for all the help so far guys,I'm sure to have a lot more questions ahead. Ryan

[rickairmedic]

Ryan I dont know how I missed this post before but its good to see pics of your 64 and yes it is a very nice looking 64 . I have 3 stock innies on my uni your welcome to as soon as I get it off its old chassis and onto the crown vic chassis .


Rick