drag link question

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RangerSteve62
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drag link question

Post by RangerSteve62 »

So I noticed that my driver side front tire is getting a nice groove rubbed into it. I traced it to my nice shiny drag link... probable not good.... when I was checking it out I noticed that the drag link shifts right and left when I move it with my hand. I am thinking that the bushings are worn and 49 years old.

My question is, are they supposed to move that much. I never had the clearence issues with the wheels before.

Can I buy just the bushings or do I need to replace the entire drag link.
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MadMaxetc
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Post by MadMaxetc »

you shouldn't have any movement on anything under there. You will have to replace the drag link.
Dan
Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4
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RangerSteve62
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Post by RangerSteve62 »

thanks... I figured that, but thought I would ask some experts... is there any major differences in quality between; LMC, Dave Carpenters, ect...
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MadMaxetc
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Post by MadMaxetc »

I got mine from O'Reiley's. Good Moog parts. NAPA, Autozone, etc... they will all have them. They need to use the book, but you don't have to pay for shipping.
Dan
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Brian Taylor
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Post by Brian Taylor »

Moog - Drag Link
Part Number: DS658
Line: MOOG
UPC: 80066124889
They run about 107$
1966 Ford F-100 LWB 300
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RangerSteve62
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Post by RangerSteve62 »

Diclaimer- I am brand new to the world of slicks and the world of restoration/mechanical work. Please bear with me, I am sure there will be many many more questions that I ask you guys. Anyway-

So I ordered my new drag link... and I wanted to take the old one off but I am running into a problem. I have taken the castelated nuts off both ends but the pittman arm is not coming off the bolt. Is there a special trick to this?

Image


I am running into the same problem with the other end of the drag link. THe bolts came off rather easy.... So I dont think it is a rust issue, plus the grease has it pretty coated...I have no idea... bang.gif

Image
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ezernut9mm
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Post by ezernut9mm »

you sir, need a pickle fork.
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RangerSteve62
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Post by RangerSteve62 »

is that to stab myself in the eyeball from frustration or does that actually serve a purpose?
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ICEMAN6166
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Post by ICEMAN6166 »

Image

you will need to put the pittman back on the shaft to make it easier.
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ezernut9mm
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Post by ezernut9mm »

brian, your pic link is broke.

steve, it goes between the drag link and pitman arm and forces them apart. they sell really cheap. like around ten bucks.
always
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles


i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
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ezernut9mm
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Post by ezernut9mm »

always
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles


i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
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tray
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Post by tray »

Most parts stores will rent you the tool and refund your money when you bring it back.
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RangerSteve62
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Post by RangerSteve62 »

awesome... thanks everyone... Ill post picks when Im done
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Fanatic
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Post by Fanatic »

make SURE you put the pitman arm back on where it was or else your steering wheel will be off center and your turning radius will be messed up
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ICEMAN6166
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Post by ICEMAN6166 »

Fanatic wrote:make SURE you put the pitman arm back on where it was or else your steering wheel will be off center and your turning radius will be messed up
Tim
i dont think you can put it on in the wrong place as there is a groove on the shaft for the bolt if its not lined up the bolt wont go thru.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
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John Sutton
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RangerSteve62
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Post by RangerSteve62 »

So... my drag link came in and I rented a pickle fork...after not using the pickle fork to stab my eyeballs out.. I finally figured its use.. I got my drag link diconnected and taken off. I figured since I had the tool I might as well take the pittman arm and the knuckel off also... cleaned them up and coated them with a rubberized rust protectant under coating.

Image

Image

Image

After taking forever drying, I put everything back together.... took er for a test drive and good to go... thanks for all your help... this was my first true repair... many many more to go until my slick is where I want it.... hurrah.gif

Image
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MadMaxetc
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Post by MadMaxetc »

Realy glad you got it fixed!

Now you should look at the tie rod ends. They are probably colse to gone if the drag link was shot. Be warned, you will need to get an alignment done after.
Dan
Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4
My Build Thread
ICEMAN6166
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Poland

Post by ICEMAN6166 »

ya done good !

now keep them joints greased up good and it will last many years.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
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ezernut9mm
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Post by ezernut9mm »

cool. glad you got it all done up right.
always
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles


i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
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Greg D
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Post by Greg D »

If you are going to drive her alot you may consider this too;

http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2647

Nothing like real solid stopping power.
Great job on the repair.
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