Best source for new seat belts?
Best source for new seat belts?
I'd like to install new ones in the Slick when redoing the interior.
Suggestions?
Suggestions?
1965 F250 352 4spd/Dana 4.10 (sold)
1991 Porsche 964 Cabriolet
2006 Cheby Silverado
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee - yeah, it's a HEMI
1991 Porsche 964 Cabriolet
2006 Cheby Silverado
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee - yeah, it's a HEMI
Just found these folks.
http://www.gotbelts.com
Is there a way to at the 3pt. anchor to the corner of the cab without messing up the paint? (welding)
http://www.gotbelts.com
Is there a way to at the 3pt. anchor to the corner of the cab without messing up the paint? (welding)
1965 F250 352 4spd/Dana 4.10 (sold)
1991 Porsche 964 Cabriolet
2006 Cheby Silverado
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee - yeah, it's a HEMI
1991 Porsche 964 Cabriolet
2006 Cheby Silverado
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee - yeah, it's a HEMI
- qwertyd10n
- Posts: 496
- Joined: September 13, 2007, 9:47 am
- Location: Southern Alberta

I ordered a set from Retro Belts (http://yhst-95280463928743.stores.yahoo.net/index.html) a while back. Just about ready to install them... quality looks great though.
Cheers,
Dion
Cheers,
Dion
- qwertyd10n
- Posts: 496
- Joined: September 13, 2007, 9:47 am
- Location: Southern Alberta

I installed three point belts in my tuck and didn't have to weld on the cab. There is an thread on this site somewhere about installing them. I'll see if i can find it...BigMike wrote:
I'd like to put in a 3pt system but don't want to weld in the cab and mess up the outside paint.
-1966 Ford F100, 352, 4 speed, smoke grey, mustang buckets
-2003 Ford Ranger XL, 3.0, 5 speed
-1989 Ford F250, 460, highboy, 4x4
-2003 Ford Ranger XL, 3.0, 5 speed
-1989 Ford F250, 460, highboy, 4x4
-
Motocentro
- Posts: 145
- Joined: November 7, 2007, 9:05 pm
- Location: Atlanta
Follow this to a "T" and be EASY with that drill bit into the column. might even want to consider employing a piece of string and get a magnet ready. I may have deviated with the "reach around" solution (not sure why at this point) but i pretty much used Charlie's methodology.
To this day one of the best upgrades I've done ... of course I drive like a bat out of hell when "commuting" across my fair city and being strapped in helps.
J
My new signature.
Excellent, thanks!
I was thinking of buying these. Wonder if this has the same retractor.
http://www.gotbelts.com/retractable-lap ... 1/view/116
1965 F250 352 4spd/Dana 4.10 (sold)
1991 Porsche 964 Cabriolet
2006 Cheby Silverado
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee - yeah, it's a HEMI
1991 Porsche 964 Cabriolet
2006 Cheby Silverado
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee - yeah, it's a HEMI
You can also try these guys too. They've been around awhile, used to see them in Mustang Monthly back when I had my 66 coupe.
http://www.ssnake-oyl.com/
Moose
http://www.ssnake-oyl.com/
Moose
American born, German blood, Texan attitude..... And people wonder why they call me "Moose."
66 F-100 Too much to list
05 F250 The Tank
66 F-100 Too much to list
05 F250 The Tank
I started sanding the inside of the cab floor last night and siphoned the gas out of the tank. I still need to remove the emergency brake assembly. I've looked at the links here to get the t-handle off but don't want to cut/split/break it. I have a couple of ideas.
I ordered a lot of parts from DC on Sunday night so that stuff should be here today or tomorrow. My schedule is as follows.
Thurs/Friday after work
- Remove the gas tank
- Sand cab floor
Saturday
- Finish sanding cab floor, kick panels, and rear of the cab
- Sand gas tank
- Sand steering column (power steering column that is red)
- Prime gas tank, steering column, floor, kick panels, and rear of the cab
- Sand/Wire Wheel firewall from the brake booster to the pedeals
Sunday
- Paint floor, kick panels, and rear of cab Caribbean Turquoise (CT)
- Paint gas tank (most likely) Wimbledon White (it's CT)
- Paint area of firewall black (the entire firewall will be painted CT in the future)
- Disassemble pedal assembly (taking it to get powder coated next week)
- Disassemble heater assembly and paint
I want to be able to start reassembling everything a little at a time next week and weekend. I'm hoping to have the seat back by 5/19 which should be the last thing that I need to install. I want to make it to the Norcross car show on the 21st (if something doesn't come up).
Parts to replace:
- Heater Core (while I'm in there)
- Heater Hoses
- Reman Power Steering Gear
- Reman Power Steering Pump
- Power Steering Hoses
I ordered a lot of parts from DC on Sunday night so that stuff should be here today or tomorrow. My schedule is as follows.
Thurs/Friday after work
- Remove the gas tank
- Sand cab floor
Saturday
- Finish sanding cab floor, kick panels, and rear of the cab
- Sand gas tank
- Sand steering column (power steering column that is red)
- Prime gas tank, steering column, floor, kick panels, and rear of the cab
- Sand/Wire Wheel firewall from the brake booster to the pedeals
Sunday
- Paint floor, kick panels, and rear of cab Caribbean Turquoise (CT)
- Paint gas tank (most likely) Wimbledon White (it's CT)
- Paint area of firewall black (the entire firewall will be painted CT in the future)
- Disassemble pedal assembly (taking it to get powder coated next week)
- Disassemble heater assembly and paint
I want to be able to start reassembling everything a little at a time next week and weekend. I'm hoping to have the seat back by 5/19 which should be the last thing that I need to install. I want to make it to the Norcross car show on the 21st (if something doesn't come up).
Parts to replace:
- Heater Core (while I'm in there)
- Heater Hoses
- Reman Power Steering Gear
- Reman Power Steering Pump
- Power Steering Hoses
1965 F250 352 4spd/Dana 4.10 (sold)
1991 Porsche 964 Cabriolet
2006 Cheby Silverado
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee - yeah, it's a HEMI
1991 Porsche 964 Cabriolet
2006 Cheby Silverado
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee - yeah, it's a HEMI
- charliemccraney
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: July 9, 2008, 10:02 pm
- Location: Lawrenceville, GA
The easiest way I've found to deal with the brake cables is to remove the assembly from under the dash. Once that is done it is easy to maneuver it in order to remove the old cable and install the new. You will need a big screw driver to remove the screws from under the dash. If you use a small one, you'll probably just chew up the screw heads trying to get them out.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
- qwertyd10n
- Posts: 496
- Joined: September 13, 2007, 9:47 am
- Location: Southern Alberta

Hey Mike,BigMike wrote:Does anyone know what length to get for the 3 point seat belts?
I believe I ordered two of these for my truck:
http://www.retrobeltusa.com/products/details/id/2
I also ordered a non-retractable lap belt for the middle seat spot and I ordered the 60" version.
I haven't got them fully installed yet, but they should be plenty long enough.
Cheers,
Dion

