2 problems, Brakes not stopping and fuel delivery.

[Southern64]

My truck is finally on the road after 5 years, and after driving around town for a month now, just notice a few things.

1. I added disc brakes and power brakes and now my pedal goes to the floor and the truck slowly comes to a stop, kind of still rolling. THere is no way to lock them. Could I just need to add fluid?

2. I dropped in a 302 converted to carb, and now if I mash the gas while rolling, it almost cuts off for a second, then catches to accelerate? Fuel delvery seems to be ok, could this be a carb adjustment fix?

I know I didn't give that many details, if you think you know an answer but have a setup question, please ask. Thanks so much.

[banjopicker66]

A couple of questions:
1. When you did the disc brakes, did you use a dual master cylinder, a proportioning valve and run new brakes lines?
2. If you used a new/different master cylinder, did you adjust the pushrod length to make sure the pedal was at the same height it was originally?

For the carb:
1. Did you install new or used?
2. If used, did you install new gaskets, especially an accelerator pump?
3. What kind of carb is it?
4. How many miles on the engine? - possible timing chain slop is the thought here.

[Brian Taylor]

Start with simple, bleed the brakes fully again. Then see if the pedal is the same.

Carb sounds like the accelerator pump:::???

[charliemccraney]

Front and rear disc brakes?? If the rears are still drums, make sure they are adjusted properly. If they are too loose, the pedal will go to the floor and it will not stop well at all.

[William-in-St George]

Had a similar problem resolved by adjusting the booster to MC rod. It has a nurled nut on it. Use a couple of pairs of pliers and run it out about 2 turns and try that. All the other stuff the previous posters mentioned.

["Whitey Ford"]

Accelerator pump for the carb question....

[Tech]

Brakes
Did they rapidly get worse or slowly over weeks?
check / top off fluid
bleed all four corners until the fluid runs clear with no bubbles
adjust up the rear drum tensioners
If you still have nothing have someone work the pedal while you look in the fluid reservoir. If the holes in the bottom are squiring fluid up while the pedal is going down then the master cylinder is shot.
Look for wet spots around all brake components. The system should not leak.

Carb
What is it?
new or used?
If it is too big that is the penalty.
Check the four bolts holding it down. The gasket holding it down can relax after a few heat cycles creating a nice vacuum leak
The accelerator pumps job is to cover that lean spot when you jump on it. Take the air cleaner off and look down the carb with the choke open. Exercise the throttle and see if a small stream of gas squirts at both butterflies.
If yes it could just need a bigger shot or you could have a vacuum leak.
If no squirt we need the brand of carb
Do you have good hot spark?
How well does it start in the mornings?
Tech

[Greg D]

Everybody else covered the rest of the questions I'd ask.
You did run new flex hoses right?
Had a similar problem with TeamHaney's 65 when we put a dual MC on it.
Turned out the new MC was bad - after a simple swap & rebleed it stops great now. Will lock up all 4.

[Southern64]

OK guys, sorry for the delay in response on my own damn thread. Here is what I know:

Brakes: I did install a universal dual power MC with a prop valve , and replaced the rubber lines (had to as disc brakes now), as well as ran all new brake lines. I think it's the push rod like y'all are saying, from what I guessed and I reading here, I need to adjust the nut for the depth it travels. Currently after having the truck jacked up for a few weeks lowering the front end , caused some fluid to leak from somewhere. and that is causing my lack of stopping. I am going to add some more fluid and adjust the pushrod. ANd maybe rebleed.

Carb: It is a 4 barrel Edelbrock I bought off a buddies mustang. I had my friend that works on carbs rebuild it with an Edelbrock kit and replaced all Gaskets and springs. SHe starts right up everytime first turn w/o even pumping the carb and no choke. drives fine, just when I downshift (auto) it almost cuts off, then catches and takes off.

[Tech]

If it used to stop and had adequate pedal travel I don't think that your symptoms support an adjustment issue.
Fix the leak
refill
rebleed "Mandatory if you let it run dry"
Then think about adjustments.

The accelerator pump on an Edelbrock is a vertical rod through the top in the drivers side front corner.
On engines that sit a lot the pump can gum up and stick.
Does it squirt when you open the throttle?
If not play with the rod a little and it may free up.
If it is squirting then you can probably adjust the linkage to increase the shot size.

[William-in-St George]

Just a guess OKAY! Could the vacuum line to the the valve on the back of the transmission be off? Or could the valve itself be leaking? I think you have a vacuum leak?