Picked up a Holley Projection Fuel injection kit

Sarg · Post by **Sarg** » January 31, 2011, 1:13 pm

I don't suppose anyone knows of an alternative to the 150 dollar holley replacement pump? That just seems like a ton for a 43 lb pump that only flows at 15 psi.

charliemccraney · Post by **charliemccraney** » January 31, 2011, 1:26 pm

I don't have much faith in Holley electric pumps. I've owned two so far and both went bad in an unreasonably short time.
I would think any pump with similar specs will work. Looking on summitracing, though, it looks like $150ish is what you're going to have to spend.

Sarg · Post by **Sarg** » January 31, 2011, 1:46 pm

I honestly don't have much faith in them either, but finding a pump that only does 15 psi and 43 gph is not looking good. I am not against spending the money if it is going to work well and last. I just worry about too much pressure on a higher pressure pump blowing out the regulator.

charliemccraney · Post by **charliemccraney** » January 31, 2011, 1:54 pm

Take a look at summit, there are several options, including a Carter, between 15 and 20 psi. I switched to Carter after Holley failed me. So far it's lasted twice as long as the two Holley pumps combined and is still going strong.

Sarg · Post by **Sarg** » January 31, 2011, 10:03 pm

Well, Carter big nasty rotary should be here on Wednesday and then hopefully I can get this thing done. I also plan on running the new pump off of a relay to try to decrease varying fuel pressure. I did some thinking, examining and testing. Seems the best way to go about it for steady fuel pressure.

Sarg · Post by **Sarg** » February 2, 2011, 8:51 pm

Got the pump in today. Talk about fast shipping. I did ground and got it in 2 days. Pump is all wired up and plumbed and working. I turned it in for the night though when the injectors did not fire. I will have to recheck the wiring my buddy did tomorrow to verify everything is as should be. It is possible that voltage is dropping too low for the ecu during cranking and I will have to use a relay. But making progress! At least I have a working fuel pump

Sarg · Post by **Sarg** » February 6, 2011, 12:51 pm

Well, making progress, but still no fuel from the injectors. Turns out some of the wiring my friend did was incorrect. So I have corrected those problems. Going to the parts store to get the rest of what I need to verify connections and everything.

Sarg · Post by **Sarg** » February 6, 2011, 8:53 pm

Got it. My friend had the power wired to the ignition switch and it was losing power during cranking. Injectors were a bit corroded at the connectors. I took everything apart and cleaned everything well, and I am at least able to start the motor now.

It is not in a good state of tune and I am still wondering if the injectors need to be sent off to be internally cleaned as the spray pattern does not look great, but it is progress. I guess that is what I get from buying something like this used from an unknown source

I am also wondering if the fuel pressure regulator is bad as it would not go above 13 psi. It is supposed to be able to go up to around 18 or 20 psi. But fully tightened down and it hovered around 12-13. Luckily I don't need much more than that at this point so it is not a huge deal. It will not work at all for the next motor, but I planned to swap things out eventually anyways.

So making progress. Things to note for people in the future...go directly to the terminal on the starter solenoid that the starter wire is on for the cranking signal. The signal wire drops voltage during cranking and does not put out a good strong voltage. It seemed to alternate between 8 and 9 volts. The terminal that the starter wire is on, however, gets a good solid 10-11 volts which is enough to power the ECU.

Also of note, the terminal (on my truck at least) on the ignition switch loses power during starting. So if you need constant power before and during starting, this is not a good place. My friend told me a way to wire it up with diodes though and that seems to be working great. I ran one wire with a diode to the starter wire and another to the ignition switch. Both wires had diodes on them to keep power from crossing over. I then ran these two to a relay trigger that triggered the main ECU power. Works well.

Post by **Greg D** » February 6, 2011, 9:23 pm

Will Ford or GM throttle body injectors work in it?
Makes some sense they would use an already available piece in the system.
Spray pattern may improve with proper pressure also.

Sarg · Post by **Sarg** » February 6, 2011, 9:41 pm

Someone was saying late 80s 318 dodge would work, but I can get them cleaned and tested cheap.

Sarg · Post by **Sarg** » February 7, 2011, 6:26 pm

Well everything is up and running. Idle seems a bit weird, but I think that one of the gaskets may have been damaged when taking everything on and off, so that will be replaced later this week.

Truck runs VERY smooth when driving and throttle response is 10x better. Truck seems to be making more power and it is more consistent. I can only imagine it will get better as I get the vacuum leak fixed.

charliemccraney · Post by **charliemccraney** » February 8, 2011, 12:04 am

For what it's worth, Stock GM tbi systems operate on about 11psi, 9 - 13 is usually acceptable. So unless the Holey instructions say otherwise, I think you're good at 12-13.

Sarg · Post by **Sarg** » February 8, 2011, 6:47 am

They actually say 13 psi for small blocks and 18 psi for big blocks. I am sure they had these calculations in mind when designing the software. Increased fuel pressure increases the amount of fuel the injectors will flow.

Sarg · Post by **Sarg** » February 27, 2011, 9:18 pm

Ok final post on this subject till the new motor goes in. Got around to dealing with most everything. The truck is MUCH more responsive than ever before. Runs good, drives good, seems to make more power. The only thing I don't like is I am not able to plug in and change the mapping on this old analog system, it is all in the little dials. Next review will probably still be a throttle body system, but will more than likely be controlled by a stand alone computer along with spark.

Sarg · Post by **Sarg** » April 20, 2011, 6:52 pm

One last note. If you have a 2 barrel manifold, get the Holley adapter. It fits much better and is not prone to vacuum leaks. Despite what Summit Racing says, it DOES come with hardware and gaskets. So do not order them again like I did. Seals better and fits right UNLIKE the Transdapt adapter plate. Truck runs and drives great!