NEWB with a 64 Shortbox Fleetside
NEWB with a 64 Shortbox Fleetside
Here is my intro, did'nt see where to do one so I AM gonna give it here.. 40 years old(feel like I'm 80) I tuned Nitro Harleys for a few seasons, owned my own Harley repair shop, grew up restoring Corvettes with my pop's, have had several muscle and classics along the way, currently own a 31 Ford 5 window coupe, a 77 Toyota FJ-40 Landcruiser, and my new pride and joy a 64 Fleetside Ford...Short and sweet...So on to my question:D Yes I am happy well almost! I finnaly got my truck its a 1964 Shortbox Fleet side, its running a 292 Y block 2brl. 3 speed, it was remand, at some point by Fred Jones Remanufacturing in Oklahoma OK, according to the tag... The motor runs like a top! The truck is more solid than I ever could ask for, the only prob is the trans... I can get her to shift between first and reverse, have a hell of a time getting her in second, shifts into 3rd fine, but then hell of a time going between 3rd and any other gear..
I am planning on pulling the trans in the morn is there anything obvious I should look for other than worn syn, or bushings? or am I missing something all together.. Thanks guys for any and all info I will post pics in the morn of the truck and my findings.... Ryan
- slickmainer
- Posts: 2555
- Joined: October 8, 2007, 6:41 pm
- Location: Auburn Maine
- Contact:

Hey, Welcome Ryan!
Before you pull the trans, maybe you should check the shifting linkage on the column. It may be all worn out. Perhaps a 3 on the tree expert will come along here shortly and give you some "real" advice....lol!
Sounds like a nice truck, though. Post up some pics when you can. We'd like to see it.
Before you pull the trans, maybe you should check the shifting linkage on the column. It may be all worn out. Perhaps a 3 on the tree expert will come along here shortly and give you some "real" advice....lol!
Sounds like a nice truck, though. Post up some pics when you can. We'd like to see it.
- ezernut9mm
- Posts: 9141
- Joined: July 21, 2006, 9:37 pm
- Location: KCMO

yes, pics or ban! lol. welcome to the slick spot. not being an expert on the 3 on the trees, i'd still bet a buck that the problem is in the column and not the transmission. they are pretty sturdy units.
always
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
Welcome!!! you will find that everyone here can help in one way or another. My advice would be that when you do get it out, first try to shift it by hand, then check the total end play before you take it apart. and pay attention to the bearing between the input shaft and the main shaft, then check the synchros with a feeler gauge. a proper service manual and specs never hurt.
Jim
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1965 LWB, Powered by 1993 COBRA MUSTANG engine with AOD trans and Under bed fuel tank.
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1965 LWB, Powered by 1993 COBRA MUSTANG engine with AOD trans and Under bed fuel tank.



I am stoked about everything on the truck,, except the wheels... I am looking for a set of stock steelies, or even concidering a nice set of chrome reverse wheels for her, to give her more of a sixties vibe.. No lowering, or nothing just wanna ditch the alum. rims.. Yhea I thought it was the linkage, but it got stuck in 1'st, and could;nt get her into 2nd... did a little shake of the shifter, got her into second, but then nothing.. Climbed under there, disconnected the linkage and could'nt move any of the 2nd/3rd lever with my hand, then broke out the CHEVY WRENCH (hammer) and gave her a little tap and still could'nt get her to budge.. I can shake her loose every once in a while but thats it.. then she gets stuck....
I need to get a SERVICE MANUAL PRONTO! That is always the first thing I do with every vehicle and always recomend it.. But since I got her lastnight at 8 pm I have been wanting to play with her and have not had a chance to even locate one.. still looking for aftermarket companies to order from.... Who is the best? I have ordered from cheap companies in the past for my 31 and get just that cheap junk.. Ryan
- ezernut9mm
- Posts: 9141
- Joined: July 21, 2006, 9:37 pm
- Location: KCMO

the original fomoco service manuals come up on ebay once in a while. i was thinking someone had them on cd too.
always
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
- olliesshop
- Posts: 737
- Joined: May 16, 2010, 8:38 am
- Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan (Detroit Metro)
- Contact:

Welcome aboard .... That's one nice looking truck !!!
Also, per Ezernut's suggestion, here's an eBay link with 3 shop manuals on the first page ... http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=1964+f ... m270.l1313
Hope it helps.
Also, per Ezernut's suggestion, here's an eBay link with 3 shop manuals on the first page ... http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=1964+f ... m270.l1313
Hope it helps.
Tim - 1961 F250 Uni
"Big Red" pictures ... http://olliesshop.smugmug.com/Trucks
Current build thread ... viewtopic.php?f=32&t=29505
"Big Red" pictures ... http://olliesshop.smugmug.com/Trucks
Current build thread ... viewtopic.php?f=32&t=29505
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Brian Taylor
- Posts: 1469
- Joined: August 18, 2009, 3:52 pm
- Location: Dallas , Texas
- Contact:

Welcome from Missouri, the home of Slick Stock 3.
My tranny was a pain to shift too. I adjusted the linkage from the column to the transmission per the specs il the manual and got rid of the most of the problem. It's not just line the linkage up, when that is done the threaded part on the end needs to be backed up several turns. Makes all the difference in the ease in shifting.
My tranny was a pain to shift too. I adjusted the linkage from the column to the transmission per the specs il the manual and got rid of the most of the problem. It's not just line the linkage up, when that is done the threaded part on the end needs to be backed up several turns. Makes all the difference in the ease in shifting.
"One Test Result is Worth One Thousand Expert Opinions" - Werner von Braun
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semotrucker
- Posts: 489
- Joined: December 30, 2006, 12:24 pm
- Location: Morley Mo

OK here is my 5 window per request.... I here there is a way to adjust the column linkage but Its gonna be a week before I get my manual.. Is there a a brief discription of how to do this somewhere? If you take the rods of the linkage should oand could you move the linkage by hand? With the clutch pushed in? or am I thinking wrong on this... I really wanted to drive her this weekend, but being stuck in 3rd its not gonna happen.. Thanks Ryan
Last edited by LRS30 on January 19, 2013, 9:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The A model appears to be a 30 model, I once owned a 31 model. I couldn't tell for sure but it looked like the rinning board was the two piece that is used on the 30 models. BTW welcome from Central Texas.
Michelle
Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner. A Republic is a well-armed sheep.
I hope I always stay crazy, because I know if I ever become sane, it will drive me crazy.
Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner. A Republic is a well-armed sheep.
I hope I always stay crazy, because I know if I ever become sane, it will drive me crazy.
-
ICEMAN6166
- Posts: 11470
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
- Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842

welcome from Alaska
in the 3 speed trans
if the levers on the side of the trans are not in the center or neutral position - R-1 must be in the center or neutral position to allow the 2-3 lever to operate and the 2-3 must be in the center or neutral to allow the R-1 lever to work.
if you are shifting from 1-2 unless the R-1 lever is exactly in N at the same point 2-3 is in N you will have difficulty in shifting or get stuck in a gear.
worn bushings, linkage adjustment and even cab mount sag can affect the operation.
remove the linkage arm from the R-1 lever and make sure its in the N position, then try to put the 2-3 lever back into the center or N position.
the linkage can only be properly adjusted with with the column lever and the trans levers in neutral.
hope this helps
in the 3 speed trans
if the levers on the side of the trans are not in the center or neutral position - R-1 must be in the center or neutral position to allow the 2-3 lever to operate and the 2-3 must be in the center or neutral to allow the R-1 lever to work.
if you are shifting from 1-2 unless the R-1 lever is exactly in N at the same point 2-3 is in N you will have difficulty in shifting or get stuck in a gear.
worn bushings, linkage adjustment and even cab mount sag can affect the operation.
remove the linkage arm from the R-1 lever and make sure its in the N position, then try to put the 2-3 lever back into the center or N position.
the linkage can only be properly adjusted with with the column lever and the trans levers in neutral.
hope this helps
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
- olliesshop
- Posts: 737
- Joined: May 16, 2010, 8:38 am
- Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan (Detroit Metro)
- Contact:

One thing "obvious" to check is whether the clutch is disengaging fully when you push the pedal down. I had the same problem you're having and it turned out to be a worn pin that went from the clutch pedal to the slave cylinder on my 240Z, which kept it from disengaging all the way. I think it's easy to check and adjust the clutch on Slicks, by just adjusting the nut on the end of the clutch shaft shown in the picture below (tan rod with nut on the right). Chime in everyone, since I've never actually done this on mine.


Tim - 1961 F250 Uni
"Big Red" pictures ... http://olliesshop.smugmug.com/Trucks
Current build thread ... viewtopic.php?f=32&t=29505
"Big Red" pictures ... http://olliesshop.smugmug.com/Trucks
Current build thread ... viewtopic.php?f=32&t=29505
The pic did'nt show up.. Maybe my computer is blocking it... Thanks for the info. I am going out now to try to get both in Nuetral.. I tried this last night but it was a last ditch effort in the dark of course...lol Thanks Guys for making a mountain william from KY feel welcome... Ryan
olliesshop wrote:One thing "obvious" to check is whether the clutch is disengaging fully when you push the pedal down. I had the same problem you're having and it turned out to be a worn pin that went from the clutch pedal to the slave cylinder on my 240Z, which kept it from disengaging all the way. I think it's easy to check and adjust the clutch on Slicks, by just adjusting the nut on the end of the clutch shaft shown in the picture below (tan rod with nut on the right). Chime in everyone, since I've never actually done this on mine.
