EFI Questions

[dotcentral]

I know we have a couple on here that have done the ford factory EFI on 302/5.0 small blocks, and I'm slowly in the process myself. I have a couple of questions.

Code scanning. Do you have this capability? Where did you mount the port? I was thinking under the dash or in the glovebox to hid it a bit more. Do the aftermarket harnesses retain this function? I was thinking of using the RJM harness, but they haven't returned any of my emails. Guess I'll have to call them.

Fuel tank. I will use, at least temporarily the in cab tank, thought I'd use an electric pump underneath. Can I safely splice the elec pump into the stock line, leaving several inches between the tank & pump to Tee in a return line. Is that going to work? Is the stock line big enough for EFI? What size return line should I use? Eventually I'll do a Bronco II tank or similar and mount it under the bed.

Unused accessories. I don't plan on running power steering. Should I remove the pump, keep it but not hooked up, or get something to fill in the p/s pump place? I am thinking of ditching it, but not sure if that will cause problems with the serpintine belt system. I'd like to keep it. I planning on putting in A/C, so I'll have the compressor. I plan on ditching the smog pump (think that's what it is), so same question on that as well.

Mounting of fuel cut-off switch? Probably next to the tank, and relocate once I replace the tank?

Where to mount the computer? Glove box or under dash somewhere?

Thanks for any help.

Tim

[Wollfe]

I'll try to answer some of these for you

By the code scanner port I am guessing you are referring to the 83-93 self test connector
if so i just have it laying in the glove box right now. Along with the computer and the relays.
I plan to get it all mounted inside the glove box eventually.

For the fuel line I would not splice into the stock line. the fuel injection system is going to push 40psi+
regular fuel line is NOT rated for these pressures and any upstream turbulence from a return
being spliced in could cause the pump to pulse. That and you could push 40psi through the return
if the engine dies and the comp doesn't get the pump shut off fast enough.

A fuel pump cut-off or FPIS (fuel pressure inertia switch) is not necessary and I am not running one,
it appears this is also a dealer only part.
But the only real requirement for location is to have it in an accessible place
that's not going to get sudden shocks, and to have it the right way up.
Unless you are talking about a manual fuel line cut-off, and that would be personal preference

As for belt routing and accessories sorry you are going to be on your own there
i have a 92 T-bird accessory set so I could tell you that you would
have to have an idler to get the belt right But that's only on my setup
But if it looks like you need a idler pulley you might look for a
water pump that rotates backwards from the factory unit.

hope this helps

[dotcentral]

Thanks for the reply Wollfe.

Code scanner (I may have made that name up), we're talking about the same thing.

I may have to do some head scratching on the fuel line return on the in cab tank. I may have to remove the tank, ad a fitting, drill a hole in the cab floor. To bad the 66's didn't have the emissions crap with the charcoal cannister like my 71, it has a fitting on the tank that could be used for a return. Wow, how often has someone ever wishedon the their vehicle had smog crap on it?

Fuel pump inerrtia/cut-off switch. I may do it just for piece of mind.

Serp belt. I sort of figured that. Probably a pricey aftermarket solution out there somewhere. I figure all those street rodders and muscle car guys maybe running power steering, but I doubt they have the air/smog pump. I'll have to do some searching I guess.

[randyr]

dotcentral,
check out this article from Classic Trucks magazine on installing an LS1 in an early 70's chevy truck. Some of the gas tank mods may work for you.
http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0908c ... index.html

[JFCDeuce]

Power steering and smog pump delete is a pretty common scenario, just search some 5.0 racing forums and you will get plenty of knowledge, (plus a few arguments and BS, but the info is there :) ). No offense to the majority of racers out there.

[Fanatic]

Tim,
Yes you can use the diagnostic port. You will get a bunch of codes that are meaningless to you, since you'll remove the smog pump, but it can give you some info .
You will need to use a high pressure fuel pump made for FI. I used one made by Mallory and it was resonably priced. I took out the tank and put a fitting in the bottom to feed the pump. { A high pressure pump will not suck fuel, it MUST be fed fuel.} I used the factory fuel line as my return.

For the accessories.......I have a 96 truck set up and removed the smog pump and the PS pump. I also kept the AC compressor. Sounds just like what you want. I didn't have to change any thing. just run a piece of rope around the serpentine setup to get a length and buy one by length and # of ribs. If you use this set up I will gladly take a pic of my routing and give you a belt size.

[61 Merc]

What I did for my conversion was I used the wiring harness out of the 88 F150 that was the doner for everything. The computer is mounted in the firewall just above the original wiring harness junction, and I did install the inertia switch. This is important if you are in an accident and the key is left on, it will shut down the fuel system. This I mounted on the drivers kick panel, along with some of the other relays of the doner harness.

On Jinx, I am running 3 fuel pumps, 2 low pressure and a high pressure pump. My high pressure pump is also from the doner truck. You will want to run at least A 5/16" supply line and 1/4" return. You will not want to tie into the supply with your return as it will give you major grief with fuel problems.

For the serpentine belt, I eliminated the air pump and compressor, found a bracket and idler for the compressor, and went with a shorter belt.

I also used the gas pedal from the 88, as it is a cable drive unit. If you maintain the original harnesss out of a doner vehicle, it will make hooking up accessories much easier.

Dean

[dotcentral]

Thanks for the info. Gives me somethings to think about & research.