62 uni short wheel base build

medic579 · Post by **medic579** » July 31, 2009, 7:05 pm

Tomorrow I will start tearing out the old wood bed someone put in when the bed rusted out. Then I can start blasting everything from cab back and prime. Then the real work begins, body repair. Lucky for meAmy father n law owns a large sand blasting buisness and he's a 66 galaxie guy (owns 5). So I have all the materials I'm excited to get started on my rat rod look. But I need a sound truck to base it off of.

medic579 · Post by **medic579** » August 4, 2009, 8:12 pm

Well got the wood out of the bed. There are no cross bars under the wood. Apparently when the original bed rusted out the cross bars went with it. If anyone has pics of a uni bed with no bed in it but the cross bars are visible please post it or let me know. I'm thinking of fabricating my own because I want to put a wood bed back in it. What do you guys think I'll post pics of the bed area pre sand blasting.

dotcentral · Post by **dotcentral** » August 4, 2009, 8:44 pm

I need to replace my front most crossmember in my 66. A friend that sometimes posts here suggested using round pipe, said he used it on one of his trucks. But, I have access to a sheetmetal brake so I was going to try and make a new one.

Don't know if that helps or not.

medic579 · Post by **medic579** » August 15, 2009, 6:25 pm

Well today was the day i started sand blasting. I started at the back and worked my way forward to the cab boy was this thing rusty. The original bed rusted out so there are lines on both sides where it rusted all the way through the back fenders. Also where the wheel wells are you can see through the fenders. Well i got it all sandblasted and the rear end frame etc etc gonna spray it with some phospho to inhibit any rust that may be hiding out in the crevices. Then will prime and paint black then on to the fenders. Im going for a daily driver not perfect truck. So i think i will fiberglass on the inside of fenders where holes are to give the bondo something to hold onto. then lots of hours of sanding blocking etc etc so i was a little let down but it is almost 50 years old and it does run and it has insurance and tag so i can drive it on the street what should i have expected for $1000.00. Anyway i will post pics of whats done so far. By the way anyone out there who is thinking of just filling up all rusty holes with silicone dont do it i spent 8 hours today trying to get it out of small cracks inside tail lights and all sorts of other dumb places. this guy just coverd up the problem with 10 cases of silicone. It sucked bad. but i love slicks some people just dont understand the lengths we go to just to drive one of these slick babys. sorry ill post picks soon

dotcentral · Post by **dotcentral** » August 15, 2009, 7:14 pm

Wow, that had to be fun. I imagine it was hot & humid down there in Florida today.

Yeah, it sucks to find someone else's lame bodywork. Never would have thought of silicone. I've seen expanding foam a few times, and even duct tape beneath filler and paint.

Falcon Interceptor · Post by **Falcon Interceptor** » August 16, 2009, 5:38 pm

dotcentral wrote:suggested using round pipe

I just have a suggestion. If you know anyone who has built a metal shop, the 2x6 beams work pretty well in my opinion.

medic579 · Post by **medic579** » August 16, 2009, 6:46 pm

Here are the pics after sandblasting and phosfo(phosphoric acid)it eats away rust and changes the chemical structure of rust back to iron. Extra work but worth it In the long run. Has to cure for 24 hours then you sand it down then prime. It works well in any areas you can't get sand to like cracks crevices etc etc you can get it at lowes made by jasco look for active ingredient phosphoric acid. I know it looks rough but I can fix it.

don morris II · Post by **don morris II** » August 16, 2009, 7:04 pm

wow must be the salt down there doesnt look like the same truck . hats off to you for fixing it .

medic579 · Post by **medic579** » August 16, 2009, 7:11 pm

It is suprisingly sturdy even with the holesthe metal is very thick. I'm not worried. I can't just abandon it to many old vehicles are being crushed.

don morris II · Post by **don morris II** » August 16, 2009, 7:20 pm

up here in michigan we see alot of rust save what i can

Post by **Greg D** » August 16, 2009, 11:06 pm

Cab & Box Slick doors have about the same curve as the Uni bedsides - make for nice patch panels.

medic579 · Post by **medic579** » August 21, 2009, 12:05 pm

Well after a few hours with the air sander I was able to get a little primer on. It's an industrial epoxy primer.

Then on the way from my house to the shop my father in law found this hood on the side of the road. Should be able to make some patch panels from this it is some heavy steel.

hope you guys enjoy.

Post by **Greg D** » August 21, 2009, 8:18 pm

I wouldn't use that 70 Grand Prix hood for patches, it's thinner than the Slick metal. I would get a couple cab & box Slick doors or bedsides, they'd be the easiest and the same thickness. I have 2 doors here I kept just for this purpose.

medic579 · Post by **medic579** » August 21, 2009, 9:56 pm

Thanks!!!

don morris II · Post by **don morris II** » August 23, 2009, 4:45 pm

that hood could be used for a boat tail project a slick uni boat tail

62 uni short wheel base build

62 uni short wheel base build

whew

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